- The Café at Country
90 Madison Ave., 212-889-7100
Geoffrey Zakarian isn’t the only chef in town who’s reinventing the great raw-beef classic (Gray Kunz serves a version at Café Gray, John LaFemina offers one at the Orchard). It’s just that Zakarian is doing it best. At the Café at Country, Zakarian and executive chef Doug Psaltis hand-chop organic beef tenderloin until it’s velvety smooth, then spice it with the unexpected addition of pickled chanterelles. A quail-egg yolk is nestled on top of the meat, and the dish is topped with a quenelle of crème fraîche and Dijon mustard. The whole savory, slippery deal is presented in a chilled Mason jar, for a nice rustic effect.
Best Steak Tartare
From the 2006 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine
So what exactly does “best” mean in a city with thousands of pizza joints, hundreds of celebrity masseuses, and museum-worthy concept shops on every corner? Well, in the case of this, our annual “Best of New York” roundup, there’s a heavy emphasis on what’s new or what has somehow remained virtually unheard of (until now, of course).