The Peter Luger porterhouse.   (Photo: Hiroko Masuike/The New York Times/Redux)

(Photo: Illustrations by Remi Goeffroi)

OFF-THE-BONE RIB CHOP
Brandt Chop at Porter House New York
10 Columbus Cir., nr. 60th St., fourth fl.; 212-823-9500
Some steak aficionados condemn the chef for scattering this lovely piece of meat with chiles and other spices. We think they’re nuts.

SIRLOIN
Sparks Steak House
210 E. 46th St., nr. Third Ave.; 212-687-4855
Still, after all these years, the wiseguy gold standard.

RIB EYE
Robert’s Steakhouse at the Penthouse Executive Club
603 W. 45th St., nr. Eleventh Ave.; 212-245-0002
A massive truncheon of beef, good enough to divert your attention, for a minute or two, from the gyrating strippers on the dance floor below.

HANGER STEAK
BLT Prime
111 E. 22nd St., nr. Park Ave. S.; 212-995-8500
A cheap, delicate cut, beloved by steak snobs. And don’t miss the artful sides, especially the leek hashed-browns.

PORTERHOUSE
Peter Luger
178 Broadway, nr. Driggs Ave., Williamsburg; 718-387-7400
The grand old warhorse is increasingly dissed by steak snobs. We say anything prepared with this much butter and kidney suet has to be good.

KOBE BEEF
Craftsteak
85 Tenth Ave., nr. 15th St.; 212-400-6699
Some think the Kobe at Le Bernardin is the best in town. But among the city’s steakhouses, no one else offers a better selection of the overpriced beef product.

NON-STEAKHOUSE STEAK
Park Avenue Winter
100 E. 63rd St., nr. Park Ave.; 212-644-1900
No matter what season the room is decorated for, if the New York strip is on the menu, order it.

FILET
Primehouse
381 Park Ave. S., nr. 27th St.; 212-824-2600
Stephen Hanson serves a 22-ounce bone-in filet at his new steak joint. The texture is butter; the bone adds flavor.

Related:

• Articles by Adam Platt
• Table of Contents: Mar 10, 2008 issue of New York | Subscribe!