New York Magazine

Skip to content, or skip to search.

Skip to content, or skip to search.

Best Goat

Haute goat at Fiamma.  

206 Spring St., nr. Sullivan St.; 212-653-0100
As a rule, even the most rough-hewn big-city gastronomes aren’t familiar with the rusticated pleasures of a well-cooked goat. Leave it to Fabio Trabocchi, the flamboyant new chef at Stephen Hanson’s Soho flagship, Fiamma, to change all that. Trabocchi’s elegant barnyard creation has about as much of a resemblance to a haunch of grilled goat as a can of StarKist does to toro tartare. The chef procures his goat leg from an organically correct farm in Vermont; sears it; roasts it with a mixture of pancetta, diced vegetables, and lard; then plates the most tender portions on a bed of creamy parsnip purée. A light tomato sauce is added to the mix, flavored with more pancetta, plus chopped porcini and a scattering of romanesco. The delicately meaty dish, more tender than pork and more distinctive than lamb, is an elegantly citified version of an ancient peasant staple, which even a New Yorker can love.


Order the Issue Today

Cover of New York Magazine's Best of New York issue

Order This Issue

Other Best Of Guides

So what exactly does “best” mean in a city with thousands of pizza joints, hundreds of celebrity masseuses, and museum-worthy concept shops on every corner? Well, in the case of this, our annual “Best of New York” roundup, there’s a heavy emphasis on what’s new or what has somehow remained virtually unheard of (until now, of course).