(Photo: Jamie Chung. Food styling by Jamie Kimm.)

Smith’s
79 Macdougal St., nr. W. Houston St.; 212-260-0100
The endearingly retro stuffed egg (adding some spice makes it “deviled”) has gained newfound popularity, now that the nutritional pendulum has swung back, as is its wont, and chefs have rediscovered the egg’s versatility and appeal (not to mention its low cost). Equally at home in cocktail lounges like the Pegu Club and barbecue joints like Blue Smoke, the stuffed egg works best as a bar snack, which is how Bouley alumnus Pablo Romero serves it at Smith’s. Although his original preparation of lobster deviled eggs spiced with smoked Spanish paprika had its devout fans, its rich, luxurious replacement might be even better: The yolks are mixed with mayonnaise, mascarpone, Parmesan cheese, and black-truffle purée, and the whole thing is daintily garnished with a Parmesan crisp and a nourishing sprig of microarugula.