- Momofuku Ssäm Bar
207 Second Ave., at 13th St.; 212-254-3500
For a restaurant empire that everyone likes to label Asian, Momofuku covers a lot of regional American ground. Case in point: the killer biscuits and gravy on Ssäm Bar’s new weekend brunch menu. Like many winning dishes, this one was born at a family meal, when a cook named Gabe resuscitated his Atlanta family’s biscuit recipe. The special Momofuku touch, though, comes from the rendered pork-jowl fat baked into them. That, and the country-ham scraps enriching the gravy, and the slices of savory ham-hock terrine that are toasted onto one half of the biscuit before it’s piled with tremulously soft eggs stirred with crème fraîche over almost imperceptible heat.
Best Biscuits and Gravy
From the 2009 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine
So what exactly does “best” mean in a city with thousands of pizza joints, hundreds of celebrity masseuses, and museum-worthy concept shops on every corner? Well, in the case of this, our annual “Best of New York” roundup, there’s a heavy emphasis on what’s new or what has somehow remained virtually unheard of (until now, of course).