50 Commerce St., nr. Barrow St.; 212-524-2301
Some fressers find solace in overpriced cheeseburgers, others in porky bowls of ramen. But we submit that in these trying times, there’s no more comforting restaurant dish than that old barnyard staple, chicken for two. Variations of this old-fashioned delicacy have been popping up all over town, but our favorite is the one being served up by Harold Moore, to the hipsters and night owls congregating at his improbably trendy West Village restaurant, Commerce. An acolyte of Daniel Boulud, Moore inserts little nickels of black truffle under the skin of his country chicken and bakes it to a crunchy golden crisp. The chicken is brought to table for everyone to admire, carved in the kitchen, then set on plates over beds of butter-thick potato purée. The thing that sets it apart from all the other birds in town, though, is the country-bread stuffing, which the chef leavens with furtive spoonfuls of foie gras.
Best Dish for Two
From the 2009 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine
So what exactly does “best” mean in a city with thousands of pizza joints, hundreds of celebrity masseuses, and museum-worthy concept shops on every corner? Well, in the case of this, our annual “Best of New York” roundup, there’s a heavy emphasis on what’s new or what has somehow remained virtually unheard of (until now, of course).