New York Magazine

Skip to content, or skip to search.

Skip to content, or skip to search.

Best Noodles

  • Xi’an Famous Foods

    88 E. Broadway, nr. Forsyth St.; no phone

    The “Savory Cumin Lamb Hand-Pulled Noodles,” a.k.a. order No. D1, at this new Manhattan branch of the expanding Flushing chainlet, are not the prettiest noodles you’ve ever seen. Clumpy and ragged, they’re shaped like strips of cloth a fugitive from the law might tear into bandages to dress a gunshot wound. And yet, there is no noodle with a richer, chewier, more inviting mouthfeel. That these unwieldy strands are dressed with toothsome shards of lamb and enough cumin and chile oil to send your blood coursing through your veins like rocket fuel only heightens the pleasure. Still, the noodles are the thing, and if you were to dress them with a packet of Heinz ketchup, they’d stand out.

Join the Discussion

Read All Comments | Add Yours

Recent Comments On This Article

From the 2010 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine

Advertising
Order the Issue Today

Cover of New York Magazine's Best of New York issue

Order This Issue

Other Best Of Guides

Here’s the challenge in assembling our annual “Best of New York” issue: You have to eat a lot, shop a lot, dance a lot; you have to find clever ways to pry secrets out of strangers, and to shake down your friends, lovers, mothers, colleagues, and assorted gossip­hounds and bargain-mavens for fresh intel.

Read More...