- Seasonal Restaurant & Weinbar
132 W. 58th St., nr. Sixth Ave.; 212-957-5550
There are all sorts of old-world pleasures available at this unassuming, underrated restaurant in midtown, but the one we can’t resist is the oldest, most stolid Austrian specialty of all. Truly great Wiener schnitzel, one of our aged gourmand uncles liked to say, should always have “a bit of cloud” between the meat and its puffy, golden, crisp skin. And that’s what you get here. Only instead of the usual flap of too-thin, undertenderized calf meat, the co-chefs, Wolfgang Ban and Eduard Frauneder, use meticulously sourced Grade A grass-fed veal. They serve the dish the traditional way, with a mound of creamy, faintly sweet potato salad on the side and a pot of lingonberry jam. And did we mention the crust, which is neither too greasy nor too thick, and encases the tender, perfectly cooked veal in a cocoon of crisped bread crumbs and butter?
Best Wiener Schnitzel
From the 2010 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine
So what exactly does “best” mean in a city with thousands of pizza joints, hundreds of celebrity masseuses, and museum-worthy concept shops on every corner? Well, in the case of this, our annual “Best of New York” roundup, there’s a heavy emphasis on what’s new or what has somehow remained virtually unheard of (until now, of course).