- Ai Fiori
400 Fifth Ave., at 36th St. 212-613-8660
How do you make that perennial fine-dining favorite the lamb chop taste like something more than a lamb chop without losing that essential lamby flavor? If you’re the omnivorous, frenetically talented Michael White, the answer is simple: You wrap your rack of baby-pink, impossibly tender agnello in a scrim of finely ground lamb, foie gras, and caul fat. You roast this delicate package until it’s a tender medium-rare, spooning it all the while with a delicately rendered lamb jus. You leaven a mound of Swiss chard with beurre blanc, then arrange it, with your perfectly cooked chops, on the plate. The resulting dish, served dinnertimes at White’s latest restaurant, Ai Fiori, is as familiar and comforting as a classic Greenmarket lamb chop, and as artfully decadent as anything you’ll find in the grand restaurants of Paris or Rome.
See Also: A Look at the Ai Fiori Menu
From the 2011 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine
So what exactly does “best” mean in a city with thousands of pizza joints, hundreds of celebrity masseuses, and museum-worthy concept shops on every corner? Well, in the case of this, our annual “Best of New York” roundup, there’s a heavy emphasis on what’s new or what has somehow remained virtually unheard of (until now, of course).