New York Magazine

Skip to content, or skip to search.

Skip to content, or skip to search.

Best of New York 2011 • Eating

Best Madeleine

  • Fedora

    239 W. 4th St., nr. Charles St. 646-449-9336

    How do you turn a stuffy, slightly archaic sponge-cake pastry, beloved by generations of Proustians and aged French tea drinkers, into the ultimate hipster dessert? At Gabe Stulman’s latest raffish West Village hangout, they whip eggs and sugar together, then mix with lime zest, flour, and the seeds of a boutique vanilla bean. Then they pour the velvet batter into generous shell-shaped molds and bake until the shells are warm and fluffy within and fringed on their exterior with a light, golden crust. The resulting madeleines are larger than many that you see in pastry stores, and because they’re baked to order, they’re never rubbery or dry. Best of all, though, is the pot of honey-flavored sabayon on the side, which makes this old-fashioned dessert taste both decadent and comforting, like an elevated version of the good old American Twinkie.

    See Also: A Look Inside Fedora

From the 2011 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine

Order the Issue Today

Cover of New York Magazine's Best of New York issue

Order This Issue

Other Best Of Guides

Where can you find the city’s top dog groomer? Last-minute tailor? Beef tongue? We eat, drink, dance, shop, shvitz, and trampoline our way around the city, not to mention poll scores of in-the-know colleagues, hard-partying friends, opinionated family members, and, this year, a team of guest expert bloggers to bring you answers to all of the above questions, and hundreds more, in the form of our annual “Best of New York” issue.