New York Magazine

Skip to content, or skip to search.

Skip to content, or skip to search.

Best of New York 2012 • Eating

Best Chawanmushi

  • Brushstroke

    30 Hudson St., at Duane St.; 212-791-3771

    Among the delicacies that fall under the heading of mushimono (steamed dishes) in Japanese cuisine, the egg custard called chawanmushi is by far the most popular, especially among children. These junior-league foodies must have sophisticated palates, judging by the version of the dish on offer at Brushstroke, the Tribeca collaboration between David Bouley and Osaka’s Tsuji Culinary Institute. The chawanmushi in question is made by combining eggs with dashi and soy and straining the mixture to within an inch of its life. Then it’s steamed to some mysterious point between liquid and solid to achieve a texture that makes panna cotta, soft tofu, and, say, flan look like a bunch of amateurs. Depending on his mood, chef Isao Yamada tops this silky concoction with either Dungeness crab, seared foie gras, or uni, and serves it in the traditional teacup. It’s hot and jiggly and seems vaguely illicit. You wonder whether it ought to come with at least a PG-13 rating.

    See Also
    Adam Platt on Brushstroke

From the 2012 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine

Order the Issue Today

Cover of New York Magazine's Best of New York issue

Order This Issue

Other Best Of Guides

So what exactly does “best” mean in a city with thousands of pizza joints, hundreds of celebrity masseuses, and museum-worthy concept shops on every corner? Well, in the case of this, our annual “Best of New York” roundup, there’s a heavy emphasis on what’s new or what has somehow remained virtually unheard of (until now, of course).