- Kutsher’s Tribeca
186 Franklin St., nr. Greenwich St.; 212-431-0606
Don’t get us wrong. We still like to worship, on Saturday afternoons, at the ancient temple of Katz’s, and at least once a year, we’ll stand in line with the rabble of tourists to get a taste of the bread-box-size sandwiches at Carnegie Deli. But for a quick fix of all the guilty delicacies that make deli special, our choice these days is the Delicatessen, which you will find under the “charcuterie” section at the popular, even posh, new Jewish-American “bistro” Kutsher’s Tribeca. Order the “works” option and you will receive strips of “spicy” salami, slabs of duck and deckle pastrami, which are pliably soft but weirdly unfatty, and little lozenges of smoked veal tongue the color of pink roses. You can complement them with all the usual fixings (mustard, rye, pickles), but if you’re feeling bold, we suggest a dab of the house horseradish aïoli, which is leavened with capers and a gourmet helping of shallots.