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Smackdown: French Fries


Illustration by Dan Woodger  

  • The Dutch
    The much-hyped New Age “housemade fries.”
    131 Sullivan St., at Prince St. 212-677-6200
    VS
    Balthazar
    Classic French brasserie style “frites.”
    80 Spring St., at Crosby St. 212-965-1414

    Presentation
    The Dutch: Elegant, on a cloth napkin
    Balthazar: Elegant, in a paper cone

    Seasoning
    The Dutch: Perfectly salted
    Balthazar: Not enough salt

    Color
    The Dutch: Pale gold
    Balthazar: Dark gold

    Crispiness
    The Dutch: Uniformly crispy
    Balthazar: Mostly crispy

    Mouthfeel
    The Dutch: Smooth, faintly sweet after the crunch
    Balthazar: Faintly greasy after the crunch

    Greasiness
    The Dutch: Uniformly ungreasy
    Balthazar: Occasionally greasy

    Shape
    The Dutch: Long and tapered
    Balthazar: Slim, intermittently stubby

    Cost
    The Dutch: $9
    Balthazar: $9

    Winner
    Both fries have their merits, but the Dutch version triumphs, thanks to its light, ungreasy quality, and the smooth potato-y taste after the crunch.

Next: Tripe

From the 2012 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine