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Best of New York 2012 • Eating

Best Mac ’n’ Cheese

  • Queens Kickshaw

    40-17 Broadway, nr. 41st St., Astoria; 718-777-0913

    First things first: We know we shall never find another love quite like the love we have for Blue Smoke’s mac ’n’ cheese. It’s our gold (Velveeta-­orange?) standard of mac ’n’ cheese excellence. But Queens Kickshaw’s comes close. Yes, it’s pure, unbridled fancy-pants, a combination of Cheddar, Gruyère, and smoked mozzarella with a squiggle of creamy tomato sauce and—what’s this?—green beans? What the dickens are green beans doing in my mac ’n’ cheese? Still, a more judiciously calibrated ratio of cheese to elbow macaroni would be hard to find. And there’s some clever business with the technique: The relentlessly gooey thing is cooked in a loaf pan, refrigerated, sliced into thick slabs, then griddled and baked again to form a nice crust without the cheat of bread crumbs. It’s so good you’re willing to overlook the legume transgression.

    See Also
    The Underground Gourmet on Queens Kickshaw

From the 2012 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine

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Other Best Of Guides

So what exactly does “best” mean in a city with thousands of pizza joints, hundreds of celebrity masseuses, and museum-worthy concept shops on every corner? Well, in the case of this, our annual “Best of New York” roundup, there’s a heavy emphasis on what’s new or what has somehow remained virtually unheard of (until now, of course).