136 Ninth Ave., nr. 18th St.; 212-776-1990
Like all delicate works of art, Luis Bollo’s classic Iberian-style rendition of suckling pig takes a little bit of time to prepare. At the Spanish chef’s Chelsea restaurant, Salinas, the house “porcella” is slow-roasted for almost half a day, and glazed with a sherry reduction until the skin is the color of candied oranges. It’s served on the bone, although it’s so soft you won’t need a knife to eat it. Bollo plates his masterpiece with a vinegary little mound of frisée to cut the richness, and a little pile of grilled fruit (apple in winter, apricots and peaches in spring and summer) to accentuate the tender, steamy sweetness of the meat. Some may quibble with the hefty $44 price tag, but we true pork obsessives know better. “This isn’t some fiesta pig,” said one of our discerning pork-hound friends as she nibbled on a melting piece of crackling. “This is the filet mignon of pigs!”
Best Suckling Pig
From the 2012 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine
So what exactly does “best” mean in a city with thousands of pizza joints, hundreds of celebrity masseuses, and museum-worthy concept shops on every corner? Well, in the case of this, our annual “Best of New York” roundup, there’s a heavy emphasis on what’s new or what has somehow remained virtually unheard of (until now, of course).