- Torrisi Italian Specialties
250 Mulberry St., nr. Prince St.; 212-965-0955
Thanks to the success of effete little tasting ateliers like Brooklyn Fare and Momofuku Ko, the city is awash these days in pricey, tiresomely long omakase-style menus served by self-important chefs in cramped little rooms. At Rich Torrisi and Mario Carbone’s new, smartly reimagined flagship restaurant, however, the small exposed-brick room exudes a sense of cozy bonhomie, and the elaborate new tasting menu is the opposite of tiresome. The young chefs have wisely left their $60 home-style menu intact, but for two seatings every evening, the kitchen serves a new $125, twenty-course, reservations-only “chef’s tasting menu,” the highlights of which—Delmonico-steak tartare, Chinese “cashew” chicken, an opulent Bolognese made with dry-aged beef—encompass the entire gastronomic history of New York City in twenty or so carefully considered bites.
Best Tasting Menu
From the 2012 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine
So what exactly does “best” mean in a city with thousands of pizza joints, hundreds of celebrity masseuses, and museum-worthy concept shops on every corner? Well, in the case of this, our annual “Best of New York” roundup, there’s a heavy emphasis on what’s new or what has somehow remained virtually unheard of (until now, of course).