359 Bedford Ave., nr. S. 4th St., Williamsburg; 718-701-8909
Far from the epicenter of midtown power breakfasts, in a neighborhood better known for late nights than early mornings, smoked-meat maestro Dan Delaney has created what might be the best way to start the day since biscuits met gravy. Delaney brings something new to the burgeoning breakfast-taco category: his own succulent, white-oak-smoked brisket, a commodity so highly coveted that it sold out in online pre-orders before he even opened his Williamsburg restaurant, where hungry lines form for dinner service every night. Happily, that’s not the case during the day, when you can just pop in between 9 a.m. and 3 p.m. for the same lush, fat-streaked meat, mingled with cheesy scrambled eggs cooked with crème fraîche, pickled red onion, and a smoky chile-and-tomato sauce, all wrapped up in a flour tortilla (“I’d get my ass kicked by anybody that’s had breakfast tacos in Austin if I put it on a corn tortilla,” says Delaney). Time-pressed commuters can get theirs to go, wrapped in foil like a bodega egg-on-a-roll, and at $4 it costs about the same.