41-10 Main St., Flushing; 718-888-7713
You know those pretty good five-for-a-dollar pork-and-chive dumplings? These aren’t those. These are better. These are six-for-a-fiver, cooked-to-order lamb dumplings, and they’re worth the splurge. (When, by the way, was the last time you found a Chinese restaurant that stuffed its dumplings with lamb?) Like chef David Shi’s spectacular hand-pulled noodles, his dumplings have the same tender-chewy bite you associate with pasta produced by culinarily elite Italian grandmas. They’re shaped like Little House on the Prairie bonnets and come two ways: in an invigorating sour broth that could clear a sinus at twenty paces, or sluiced with the house signature sauce (a soy-rice-vinegar-and-chile-oil-based concoction so good you could slop it over an old sneaker and serve it on a bed of watercress to rave reviews). Get them both, one after the other, and you’re pretty much in dumpling heaven.