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(Photo: Jesse Winter/Courtesy of M. Wells Dinette) |
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- M. Wells Dinette
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At MoMA PS1, 22-25 Jackson Ave., at 46th Ave., Long Island City; 718-786-1800
If some of the dishes at the always inventive M. Wells Dinette seem so fantastical that they could have been conjured from a dream, well, some of them have. Take, for instance, the new oysters Bolognese ($8), which came to chef Hugue Dufour in a vision one night. The next day, still craving those elusive figments of his imagination, he went to work creating them—first spooning a meaty pork-and-beef sauce over some oysters, then dabbing them with a persillade puréed with bread crumbs and briefly baking them in the oven. The result is deliciously rich and briny—the physical manifestation of what clams oreganata can only dream of becoming.