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Illustration by Rami Niemi
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Stamina Ramen:
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- Ganso
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25 Bond St., nr. Livingston St., Downtown Brooklyn; 718-403-0900
Ryuji Irie packs his soup with fermented broad-bean paste, chiles, tiny shrimp, and the fragrant garlic chives known as nira. It’s festooned with chicken chashu and shots of schmaltz and chile oil rich and potent enough to see you through winter, and well into spring ($14).
Spicy Tonkotsu:
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- Jin Ramen
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3183 Broadway, nr. Tiemann Pl.; 646-559-2862
Soba master Shuichi Kotani oversees production of this Harlem ramen-ya’s straight and thin noodles. No extra fat is added to the pork-bone broth, yielding a less creamy soup with a very distinct flavor. It’s boosted by the house mayu, a spicy paste made from chiles, miso, and roasted garlic ($12).
Miso Ramen:
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- Ramen Yebisu
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126 N. 6th St., nr. Berry St., Williamsburg; no phone
Akira Hiratsuka ages his fresh Sapporo-style noodles for 48 hours to develop their slightly tangy flavor. He complements them with an elegant broth based on charred pork and lobster stock, sweet miso, toasted sesame, and an avalanche of chopped green onions ($12).
Mushroom Ramen:
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- Dassara
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271 Smith St., nr. Degraw St., Carroll Gardens; 718-643-0781
The noodles are fine and chewy, but the show at Smith Street’s upstart ramen-ya is stolen by a dark, soulful broth fortified with mushrooms like porcini, hen of the woods, and enoki. Fried nori, seasonal greens, and a poached egg make up the supporting cast ($12).
Korean Spicy Ramyun:
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- Hanjan
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36 W. 26th St., nr. Sixth Ave.; 212-206-7226
Hooni Kim modeled this twelve-hour broth of chicken, fish, and pork on Korea’s best-selling brand of instant soup. The red, pepper-flecked liquid arrives with a tangle of bean sprouts, an ultrafresh egg, and soft pork slices. Plan accordingly: It’s served only after 10 p.m. ($16).