158 Eighth Ave., nr. 18th St.; 646-596-8838
The well-aged beef patty at Gabe Stulman’s newest Little Wisco joint is sandwiched between buttery, toasty slices of freshly baked pain au levain. In addition to a pat of sweet onions, it’s also topped with a scrim of creamed spinach. But the thing that really separates this elegant little meat bomb from other haute burgers is an ingenious creation called “béarnaise cheese,” which binds everything together in a deliciously elevated way, not unlike béchamel in a good lasagna.
From the 2014 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine