Best of New York 2014 • Eating

• Estela

  47 E. Houston St., nr. Mulberry St.; 212-219-7693

  There hasn’t been this much fuss made over a ricotta dumpling since April Bloomfield unleashed the great gnudi craze on Manhattan exactly a decade ago. And why not? The gnocchi at this posh Nolita gastrobar are pillowy and fluffy and light enough to eat with your spoon. They’re served in a pool of broth tinged with just the right amount of sharp-edged Pecorino. And then there’s the vegetables (peas in summer, mushrooms in winter, etc.), which give this sinfully rich dish an almost virtuous feel.

From the 2014 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine