21 Cooper Sq., nr. 5th St.; 212-228-3344
Carrots are the current must-have menu veggie, but John Fraser still manages to make them feel novel. At Narcissa—Fraser’s new restaurant in the Standard East Village hotel—the kitchen starts with thumb-size carrots from Standard owner André Balazs’s upstate farm, curing and blanching them before battering and frying to order. The exterior is impeccably crisp, the just-cooked carrots inside tender and sweet. For dipping: lime-and-jalapeño-spiked silken tofu whipped to the consistency of mayonnaise. Order them as a snack, a side dish, whatever. “Our goal,” Fraser says, “is to have one on every table.”
Best Vegetable Side
From the 2014 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine
So what exactly does “best” mean in a city with thousands of pizza joints, hundreds of celebrity masseuses, and museum-worthy concept shops on every corner? Well, in the case of this, our annual “Best of New York” roundup, there’s a heavy emphasis on what’s new or what has somehow remained virtually unheard of (until now, of course).