- Fung Tu
22 Orchard St., nr. Hester St.; 212-219-8785
In many Chinese restaurants around town, your average whole fish is a tired creature, dazed from too many days spent lolling in a cloudy tank. At this stylish establishment, however, the black bass—or, some nights, Atlantic sea bream—looks (and tastes) like it’s just been hauled from the chilly waters under the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge. The Per Se–trained chef Jonathan Wu steams the fish to a plump softness, then garnishes it on the plate with fermented black beans, chile, and bits of tangerine peel. Add the modest sticker price ($28), and you have one of the most sophisticated, eminently reasonable “to share” deals in town.
Best Whole Fish
From the 2014 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine
So what exactly does “best” mean in a city with thousands of pizza joints, hundreds of celebrity masseuses, and museum-worthy concept shops on every corner? Well, in the case of this, our annual “Best of New York” roundup, there’s a heavy emphasis on what’s new or what has somehow remained virtually unheard of (until now, of course).