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Best of New York 2014 • Eating

Best Whole Fish

  • Fung Tu

    22 Orchard St., nr. Hester St.; 212-219-8785

    In many Chinese restaurants around town, your average whole fish is a tired creature, dazed from too many days spent lolling in a cloudy tank. At this stylish establishment, however, the black bass—or, some nights, Atlantic sea bream—looks (and tastes) like it’s just been hauled from the chilly waters under the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge. The Per Se–trained chef Jonathan Wu steams the fish to a plump softness, then garnishes it on the plate with fermented black beans, chile, and bits of tangerine peel. Add the modest sticker price ($28), and you have one of the most sophisticated, eminently reasonable “to share” deals in town.

From the 2014 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine

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Other Best Of Guides

So what exactly does “best” mean in a city with thousands of pizza joints, hundreds of celebrity masseuses, and museum-worthy concept shops on every corner? Well, in the case of this, our annual “Best of New York” roundup, there’s a heavy emphasis on what’s new or what has somehow remained virtually unheard of (until now, of course).