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(Photo: Carolyn Griffin/New York Magazine) |
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- Shuko
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47 E. 12th St., nr. Broadway; 212-228-6088
The chef’s-choice meal is by nature an improvised, ever-changing event, but at this discreet new Union Square establishment, you get the creative talents of two top chefs for the price of one. Working the counter with a practiced, tag-team efficiency, the former Masa protégés Nick Kim and Jimmy Lau turn out an impressive string of esoteric sushi combinations (fried cod sperm, anyone?), although it’s the non-sushi specialties (Amish squab cooked two ways, wedges of fresh-baked apple pie leavened with white miso) that lift this little 20-seat operation into the kaiseki stratosphere.