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Week of July 8, 2002

No Crust, No Fuss
You might think of the tramezzino -- the Venetian take on the English tea sandwich -- as the Arch Deluxe, or at least the Filet-O-Fish, of Italian fast food: In New York's ever-expanding panini-and-wine-bar world, it lives in the hot-and-crunchy shadow of the more popular pressed panino. Typically served on crustless white bread, cut into neat little triangles, and looking like an overgrown canapé, it practically defies you not to raise a pinkie. Unlike a cucumber sandwich, though, it can pack a serious flavor punch, which explains why even San Domenico owner Tony May has jumped on the sandwich bandwagon with a new tramezzini lunch menu, served at the bar. The selection of $4.50 sandwiches, like vitello tonnato, Gorgonzola and walnut, and prosciutto cotto and fontina, changes daily. (Two tramezzini make a nice light lunch.) There's also an expanded by-the-glass wine list to complement the sandwiches, and not a ciabatta crumb in sight.
San Domenico
240 Central Park South


best of the week
Bastille Day Pétanque Tournament
Veuve Clicquot sponsors a day of pétanque -- the French version of boccie -- to mark France's national holiday and benefit the Children's Museum of the Arts. MacDougal Street will be covered with sand to make the courts; 50 top restaurants send teams to compete, and there's a dinner afterward at Restaurant Provence. (July 14; to reserve, call 212-475-7500.)


new menu
Night Shift
Not that anyone who lives on Clinton Street is in danger of running out of dining options these days, but here's a new one: The Clinton St. Baking Company, which already has a devoted following for its nothin'-fancy-just-good-eats breakfast, lunch, and weekend brunch, has just added dinner to its repertoire. On the menu: lemon pasta with anchovy, fresh garlic, and olive oil; pan-fried Eden Brook trout; and a serious burger plate. And in case anyone misses breakfast, chef Neil Kleinberg will whip up a batch of his killer pancakes packed with enough wild Maine blueberries to satisfy a small grizzly.
The Clinton St. Baking Company
4 Clinton Street


Ask Gael
I crave a new spot to launch my day.
Looking for a breakfast nook without the usual suspects and nary a frisson of power? Cucina & Co., in the concourse at 30 Rock, has a welcome languor (at least this morning) and a numbingly huge frittata. It's a rustic and luscious tumble of sausage, onion, and peppers today, with a side of rösti potatoes. And the egg-white omelette with asparagus and tomato, ebulliently generous too, comes minus the guilt. Prices are coffee-shop gentle: $6 for the Continental breakfast, $6.50 for two eggs with rösti, fresh juice, and coffee. What do New Yorkers like for breakfast? Low-fat yogurt smoothies, fresh fruit salad, brioche French toast, granola and berries, pancakes with Vermont maple syrup, outsize muffins and scones. It's all here. Find a quiet table to gossip or cinch a deal, or steal a few minutes longer with your mate (or someone else's) and no busybodies to call "Page Six."
Cucina & Co
30 Rockefeller Plaza, concourse level

Bites & Buzz Archive

Week of July 1
The first-ever City Bakery State Fair; seriously sophisticated gelato; an independence day feast; Gael examines the allure of Da Silvano Cantinetta
Week of June 17
Manhattan clambakes; Turkish dining at Beyoglu; a chilled peach drink; and Gael Greene on classic dishes from Naples at Il Gattopardo.
Week of June 10
Brooklyn's Sardinian wine bar; Aquavit's Herring Week; strawberry fever; the Greek yogurt tycoon; Gael finds the perfect spot for tête-à-têtes.

and more ...

Photos: From top to bottom- Carina Salvi (first and third);Kenneth Chen.

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