The Americana, Long Island's glitziest mall, has a Gucci, a Bulgari, and an
Hermès -- why not a Payard? That seemed to be the thinking behind signing up
François Payard to open a suburban outpost of his elegant uptown pâtisserie
and bistro on Manhasset's famed Miracle Mile. Outfitted with a 64-seat
terrace, a mahogany bar and communal table, and café tabletops made from
shredded coconut, Payard Manhasset is as sophisticated as its city sister.
But in the three weeks he's been open (and reverse-commuting), Payard has
come to some disturbing conclusions about his new clientele. "They really
don't eat," he says of the shopaholics who cluster on the terrace to revive
themselves. "And when they do, they only want chicken." But he's happy to
comply with a lighter terrace menu of fruit nectars, refined curried chicken
salad, and a high-class turkey-and-Swiss. In time, Payard says
optimistically, the locals will surely discover chef de cuisine John
Randazzo Jr.'s exquisite seasonal prix fixe menus, his peekytoe-crab salad
with tomato-and-zucchini confit, and his lavender-honey-glazed Muscovy duck
with baby turnips and beets. Who knows? They might even be tempted to sample
the Pont Neufs and chocolate chibousts languishing in the pastry display.
Even if it means going up a size or two at Gucci.
2110-C Northern Boulevard, Manhasset
· Cuisine: Patisserie