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Week of November 4, 2002

in print
The Book of Daniel
Leslie Brenner took a crack at it in The Fourth Star; now it's Daniel Boulud's turn to tell his story, aided by New York contributor Peter Kaminsky. Chef Daniel Boulud: Cooking in New York City (Assouline; $34.95) chronicles a day in the life of Daniel and his restaurant empire, from the 6 a.m. milk-fed-chicken delivery to a sushi run about eighteen hours later. In between, there's Krispy Kreme doughnuts, a wine lunch with Robert Parker, a Japanese cook who eats live baby eels, a charity event, a catering gig, and eight fussy eaters who don't want anything on the menu. Along the way, Boulud reveals his suppliers, goes to the markets in Chinatown and the Bronx, and offers recipes from Cafe Boulud, DB Bistro Moderne, and Daniel. It's doubtful that he gets up at 5 a.m. to light the ovens himself, but it wouldn't surprise us.

Growth Industry
Say organic and some people envision hippie-run co-ops, pockmarked fruit, and bulk millet. Others see opportunity — especially since the USDA finally implemented a national certification program last month. Green Circle Organics, the Virginia-based ranch that sells organic Wagyu and Angus beef to restaurants like 71 Clinton Fresh Food and Town, aspires to "grow the category" with a new line of refrigerated, fully cooked beef entrées. The microwavable meals come in four antibiotic- and hormone-free varieties, each developed by Washington, D.C., chef Nora Pouillon, who broke organic ground three years ago by getting her whole restaurant certified. She's pictured on each package, benevolently chopping vegetables that don't actually come with the tasty Parmesan meatballs, the southwestern-style meat loaf, the Italian-style pot roast, or the superb bourbon beef roast. Even the laziest carnivore should be able to rustle up a salad.
Available at Gourmet Garage.

Bakery Goods
Fat Witch brownies are fabulous, Amy's breads and twists delicious, Sarabeth's sticky buns to die for — and you can find them all under one roof at Chelsea Market. But what's a glorified food court without a good éclair? That problem has thankfully been solved with the market's new branch of Goupil & DeCarlo, the East Village French pastry shop. And because even a Frenchman cannot live by tarts and croissants alone, the bakery supplements its baked goods with a well-edited selection of cheeses, hearty prepared entrées like chicken basquaise and stuffed zucchini, even the closest thing to a French cheese dog we've ever seen — a merguez sausage with melted Gruyère, sliced potatoes, and a swipe of mustard on a foot-long baguette.
Chelsea Market

75 Ninth Avenue, at 15th Street


Ask Gael
Tonight was a zero. I need a major treat.
I've promised myself that next time life fails me, I'll drown my sorrows in champagne and the supremely outrageous cookies at Eleven Madison Park. I can't imagine a better mood-elevator than a fudgy square of scrumptious marbled chocolate cheesecake and a bite or two or four of everything else piled on pastry chef Nicole Kaplan's devoutly all-American cookie plate. I prescribe a transcendent homemade Oreo, a slab or two of butter crunch, and a teeny homemade caramel. Then finish off with her softly chewy little truffle cookie and her even softer pillow of raspberry-laced chocolate. Hmmm . . . feeling better already.
Eleven Madison Park
11 Madison Avenue, at 24th Street

Bites & Buzz Archive

Week of October 28
Little Manila's new Filipino hot spot; Brooklyn's near-perfect bouillabaisse; new menu additions at NL; Union Square Cafe's new exercise in excess; Gael deviously devours pig.
Week of October 21
Tony May's new fast-food PastaBreak; the 2003 Zagat Restaurant Survey; Royal Crown's new Piazza Mercato; Sam DeMarco introduces the back room at Merge; Pastry sharp Wayne Harley Brachman finds a new home.
Week of October 14
The season's best truffles; beautiful tart shells; Cucina's new chef; good times at Layla.

and more ...

Photos:Carina Salvi, Kenneth Chen

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