The Book of Daniel
Leslie Brenner took a crack at it in The Fourth Star; now it's Daniel
Boulud's turn to tell his story, aided by New York contributor Peter
Chef Daniel Boulud: Cooking in New York City (Assouline; $34.95) chronicles a
day in the life of Daniel and his restaurant empire, from the 6 a.m.
milk-fed-chicken delivery to a sushi run about eighteen hours later. In
between, there's Krispy Kreme doughnuts, a wine lunch with Robert Parker, a
Japanese cook who eats live baby eels, a charity event, a catering gig, and
eight fussy eaters who don't want anything on the menu. Along the way,
Boulud reveals his suppliers, goes to the markets in Chinatown and the
Bronx, and offers recipes from Cafe Boulud, DB Bistro Moderne, and Daniel.
It's doubtful that he gets up at 5 a.m. to light the ovens himself, but it
wouldn't surprise us.
Say organic and some people envision hippie-run co-ops, pockmarked fruit, and
bulk millet. Others see opportunity especially since the USDA finally
implemented a national certification program last month. Green Circle
Organics, the Virginia-based ranch that sells organic Wagyu and Angus beef
to restaurants like 71 Clinton Fresh Food and Town, aspires to "grow the
category" with a new line of refrigerated, fully cooked beef entrées. The
microwavable meals come in four antibiotic- and hormone-free varieties, each
developed by Washington, D.C., chef Nora Pouillon, who broke organic ground
three years ago by getting her whole restaurant certified. She's pictured on
each package, benevolently chopping vegetables that don't actually come with
the tasty Parmesan meatballs, the southwestern-style meat loaf, the
Italian-style pot roast, or the superb bourbon beef roast. Even the laziest
carnivore should be able to rustle up a salad.
Available at Gourmet
Fat Witch brownies are fabulous, Amy's breads and twists delicious,
Sarabeth's sticky buns to die for and you can find them all under one
roof at Chelsea Market. But what's a glorified food court without a good
éclair? That problem has thankfully been solved with the market's new branch
of Goupil & DeCarlo, the East Village French pastry shop. And because even a
Frenchman cannot live by tarts and croissants alone, the bakery supplements
its baked goods with a well-edited selection of cheeses, hearty prepared
entrées like chicken basquaise and stuffed zucchini, even the closest thing
to a French cheese dog we've ever seen a merguez sausage with melted
Gruyère, sliced potatoes, and a swipe of mustard on a foot-long baguette.
75 Ninth Avenue, at 15th Street