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Week of November 18, 2002

Pressing Concern
The appropriately named Autumn Stoscheck took a break from her trees last year, leaving Littletree Orchards in Newfield, New York, for a trip to England, where she visited a few cideries, took classes, and came home to open Eve's Cidery. A year later, her fruity, mildly alcoholic concoctions-Eve's Peach Apple, Montmorency Cherry Apple, Bittersweet Apple, Sparkling Apple-are finding their way to Manhattan shelves. Watch the Greenmarket for the truckful of wine bottles with playful labels (designed by Stoscheck) depicting Garden of Eden scenes.
Available Fridays at Union Square and Saturdays at the Farmer's Market in Rockefeller Center; from $8 a bottle.


Ask Gael
I want a lunch sopt that's discreet and delicious.
At the moment, lunch at Lutèce could not be more discreet, but that might not last given the lure of the remarkable $29 prix fixe. On first visit, I was so spooked by chef David Feau's foie gras smothered in semisweet-chocolate sauce, I fled. But as a congenital tightwad, I can't pass up a bargain. So voilà. There are still faces familiar from André Soltner's Lutèce, though the garden, all muffled in beige, is a shock-severe but soothing, good for gossip and seduction. Chef Feau strives and sometimes strains: His smartly mounted carpaccio tasting is provocative and mostly rewarding. Lush nubbins of caramelized duck on circlets of black radish are odd as a starter (with a bit more duck, it could be an entrée). A chic salmon fillet floats in a creamy vegetable blanquette, and a scattering of veggies makes a wonderful foil for cabbage-wrapped halibut. Yogurt crème brûlée is a reach that definitely pleases.
249 East 50th Street

Bites & Buzz Archive

Week of November 11
New cheese courses; specialty food haven Blue Apron Foods; Fresco by Scotto on shelves nationwide; Gael checks out the beef for dinner.
Week of November 4
Daniel Boulud's newest achievement; organic microwaveable meals; Goupil & DeCarlo heads west; beating the blues at 11 Madison Park.
Week of October 28
Little Manila's new Filipino hot spot; Brooklyn's near-perfect bouillabaisse; new menu additions at NL; Union Square Cafe's new exercise in excess; Gael deviously devours pig.

and more ...

Photos: Joe Scafuro and Patrik Rytikangas

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