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Week of January 6, 2003

object of desire
Bacon Brother
You might think of Rick Moonen's BLT—available on RM's new prix fixe lunch menu —as a modest piscatory equivalent to Daniel Boulud's fabled DB burger. Moonen luxes up the coffee-shop classic to pleasing effect with thickish slabs of slightly sweet and smoky Perona Farms salmon bacon, mizuna, plum-tomato slices, and dill-caper aïoli, all neatly packaged between slices of whole-grain bread and served with a side salad of perfectly cubed cucumbers. Now, if only some enterprising star chef would tackle egg-salad on rye. . . .
33 East 60th Street


best of the week
Winter Restaurant Week 2003
Clear your midday calendar, and grab those reservations fast: This year’s $20.03 lunches and $30.03 dinners are available January 27 through 31. Participants range from Nobu to Brasserie 81/2 to Smith & Wollensky.
For more information visit,


Buy a Cake, Win a Plate
Everyone's favorite patissier, Francois Payard, is giving away fine china! That's right, through January 11, the confectionary wizard will be making Galette des Rois (a classic French almond cream baked in puff pastry and adorned with a crown). One of these "King's Cakes" will contain a hidden golden key. The lucky finder wins a 6-piece set of Bernardaud china in the pattern of his or her choosing. Cakes serve four, six, eight, and ten people and run $18 and $42.
Payard Patisserie
1032 Lexington Ave


Ask Gael
I hear the Sultan of Swagger at Beyoglu has gone.
With a chorus of raves drawing crowds for sublime Turkish meze at Beyoglu, its creator, the irascible Orhan Yegen, disappeared. "Too rough on the customers," his boss, Yulian Betulovici, charged. Left with Yegen's amiable crew and a bustling success in a totally foreign cuisine, and having relocated to the ground-floor corner that housed his own Ci Vediamo, Betulovici boldly risked opening a fish spot upstairs, and stumbled. So now, that quieter aerie is dedicated to Beyoglu's overflow and private parties. So far, fans are finding the same sprightly tarama, hummus and eggplant purée, wonderful octopus and stuffed grape leaves, and more, all served with rounds of warm, bubbly Turkish bread. Along with the meaty doner kebab, new entrées include chicken and daily seafood specials -- braised tuna or striped bass grilled whole with herbs and a last-minute olive-oil drizzle. Yegen's irrepressible arrogance is gone, but the new guy's got Cary Grant's dimpled chin.
1431 Third Avenue, at 81st Street

Bites & Buzz Archive

Week of December 31
Chef Collichio hones his craftbar; the applejack cobbler martini; a chocolate garden in SoHo; birthday season at Trattoria Dell’Arte
Week of December 16
Olives get sugar-coated; dinner is jazzed at Daniel; holy holiday fishfests; Christmas cake to keep; low-decibel dining Upstairs at '21.'
Week of December 9
Spoonbread is holiday chic; Payard for preschoolers; Jacques Torres expands to Brooklyn demands; cookbooks to give and get now.

and more ...

Photos (from top to bottom): Bruce Katz and Kenneth Chen.

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