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Yaeger: The Celine-ification of Paris Is in Full Swing

From left: Yves St. Laurent, Stella McCartney, and Givenchy.Photo: Imaxtree

Remember when the recession first hit, and everyone in the fashion industry was going around saying that people would only part with their precious money for a really special, unbelievably irresistible, one-of-a-kind item? Wrong. It turns out those unicorn boots embroidered with angel’s hair are not what customers really want, at least not according to the Paris runway this season. Instead, it seems that what women are supposed to get really excited about are neat little overcoats, double-faced wools, double-breasted jackets with little belts, trim trousers, and a slew of other proper items straight out of Jenny Cavalieri’s closet.

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Diane Von Furstenberg Insists on Casting Diverse Runways

Diane Von Furstenberg’s runways are among the most diverse at Fashion Week; 16 of her newest collection's 43 looks were modeled by women of color (that's 37 percent, compared to this season's dismal average of 16 percent, as calculated by Jezebel). Last night, celebrating International Women's Day with the launch party of her new CD Proud to Be Woman, proceeds from which benefit Vital Voices, Von Furstenberg said she thinks diversity will catch on eventually. “It’s a habit. If you tell people it’s cool, they’ll do it. Changing human behavior takes a little while,” she said. She’s also adamant about diversity in her own shows. “I insist. It’s my rule, and I always tell my casting agents. That’s it! Otherwise, I don’t hire them. I send everybody an e-mail right before Fashion Week to remind them to do it.”

She wasn't so thrilled with the clothes at the Oscars. »

Ex-Aquascutum Designers Go to Bally; Karl Lagerfeld to Receive French Legion of Honor Award

• Designers Michael Herz and Graeme Fidler left their posts at Aquascutum last week and found new jobs as designers of Bally. Brian Atwood's last collection for Bally was fall 2010. [My Fashion Life]

• French president Nicolas Sarkozy announced that Karl Lagerfeld will be made Commander of the French Legion of Honor. [WWD]

• Twiggy will launch Twiggy London, a line of clothing, accessories, and footwear, on HSN on April 3. [WWD]

• Chris March said Meryl Streep only requested one thing when she called and asked him to design her Oscar dress: "A plunging neckline." [StyleWatch/People]

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Lindsay Lohan Out at Ungaro

Lindsay Lohan didn't go to the Emanuel Ungaro show yesterday. Though Lohan was appointed artistic adviser last summer, Ungaro owner Asim Abdullah said backstage Lohan was "not involved" in the fall 2010 collection. WWD reports today that Lohan is done with the label. The good thing about that is, she has plenty of time to go to shows and parties in Paris instead of hole up in a studio into the wee hours trying to come up with creative ways to conceal nipples. WWD caught up with Lohan on the front row of Kenzo yesterday:

Asked why she hadn’t been at Ungaro, she replied: “Because I don’t work for them anymore.” Prompted for more specifics, she noted, “There’s legal things going on; I can’t really discuss it.”

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Best Bet: Pop the Cork

Photo: Courtesy of 80%20

Last weekend’s disarmingly mild weather has us gearing up for spring — including clearing out our winter wardrobes. These leather and cork wedges provide a versatile warm-weather replacement for your worn-down boots. The soft, perforated leather uppers and platform wedges make them a comfortable go-to sandal when you want a little lift but don’t want to be limping home at the end of the night. And although they won’t maim your feet like strappy styles, they also don’t sacrifice style for comfort: The tassel ties in back make an unexpected accent.

Jordan Platform Wedge by 80%20, $148 at Free People or online.

03/08/10

New Shows: Celine, Givenchy, Haider Ackermann, and More

From left: Givenchy, Celine, and Haider Ackermann.Photo: Imaxtree

In just a few days Paris Fashion Week and the fall 2010 season will come to a close. Check out the latest collections in our new runway slideshows, and click "full screen" for the full effect.

Givenchy
Yves Saint Laurent
Hussein Chalayan
Haider Ackermann
Celine

Stella McCartney, Ann Demeulemeester, and more! »

How Much Has Botox Affected Acting?

Apart from issuing snap judgments on last night's gowns, our own Oscar-watching contingent was most intent on evaluating the degree of cosmetic surgery undertaken by the unblinking actresses parading across the red carpet. Amanda Fortini tackles the issue in this week's issue, asking just how much injectables have affected the art of acting. ("If you can’t frown with your mouth, they seem intent on proving, you can try to frown with your voice.") She finds that even those most opposed to going under the knife (or needle) may be swayed by the curse of high-def: "I was super against [Botox], saying I’ll never do it, then you see yourself on HD and you want to kill yourself,” says Rosanna Arquette, whose documentary Searching for Debra Winger explores the pressures of Hollywood. If only for the sake of George Clooney and Meryl Streep's eye-crinkling grins, we hope some things are sacred.

Lines, Please [NYM]

John Galliano’s Nomad Lady Warriors

Photo: Imaxtree

Yesterday, John Galliano dazzled critics with his fall 2010 namesake collection. Last season, editors including Carine Roitfeld were forced to wait outside in the pouring rain for the venue — which had a leaky roof — to open. But this season's weather didn't put a damper on Galliano's genius. The show was perfect at the end of a season in which designers really thought about, and made, clothes for strong, working women who could use a good power suit. The clothes were inspired by "nomadic warrior-women" and included leather mountain coats trimmed with yak fur and turban hats made from Mongolian lamb, fox, and wool. Galliano took his bow in a "brigand chieftain" outfit, complete with a giant hat and a dagger in his belt.

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Katy Perry Wore Red (and Some Gold) on the Red Carpet

Photo: Michael Buckner/WireImage

Katy wore a red-and-gold gown by Zuhair Marad, H. Stern jewels, a Judith Leiber clutch, and Jimmy Choo shoes last night when she attended the Vanity Fair Oscar after-party in Hollywood last night.

Do you like her Oscar-night dress?

Reader Look Book: Are You a Material Girl?

Photo: Courtesy of JenneDelson

With everyone showing off their gorgeous gowns last night, are you feeling a bit left out? Well, no more! We want to know what you're wearing, readers. Are you having a full-fledged eighties flashback, like Jenne Delson, who posted a shot of herself in a Madonna tee, Forever 21 shorts, vintage frilly socks, and Jeffrey Campbell creepers? Or do you prefer some nineties grunge? Perhaps a combo of the two with some boho thrown in for good measure? Or if your look defies all categories and labels, then show us what we've been missing out on. The world must know.



Need more explicit instruction on how to use the tool? Go here.

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‘Retail Terrorists’ With Blogs Attacked American Apparel in Williamsburg [Updated]

Pre-carnage.Photo: Hazel Kiesewetter

Late last week, the American Apparel in Williamsburg was attacked by an alleged band of "retail terrorists" clad in all-black. "They have blogs. Someone took pictures and put them up on a blog," a store worker said after the attack. They also reportedly lit trash on fire in the middle of the street. See what happens when the weather gets warm? Girls walk around outside in bras, people brunch outside with their unruly toddlers when it's still too cold to sit outside for an hour, and hooligans unleash all manner of hell. [Free Williamsburg]

American Apparel sent us a statement on the incident:

We've gotten a few inquires about an incident at our Williamsburg store last week, and because online speculation can so often go awry, we thought we'd try set the record straight with the facts we have available. About 20 small windows were broken by a group of people on Thursday around midnight. The piece of metal used to smash them was left behind, a few mannequins were scuffed, and nothing was stolen. The police apprehended and arrested two people later that night, a man and a woman, and we'll likely proceed by attempting to be reimbursed for the destroyed property.


The terrorist hipster mobs are a myth! »

Video: Getting to Know Haul Vlogger ChanelBlueSatin

Last week we introduced you to the YouTube phenomenon known as haul vlogging, which recently gained mainstream attention from NPR and Glamour.com. Even though we love buying stuff, we expressed some doubts about the value of haul vlogging in general, and included, as an example of the genre, one popular entry made by YouTube user ChanelBlueSatin. She has since posted a video response, which we found to be smart, affable, and gracious, so we're embedding it on the Cut.

Our post was not intended as a personal attack against ChanelBlueSatin (or Forever 21, where we shop from time to time). We regret that it came across as such, and apologize for judging too quickly. Often we get frustrated digging through the racks of $8 sequined booty shorts at stores like Forever, but must commend those who have the patience to persevere, and who leave with things that are cute and affordable and aren't missing rhinestones. We'll be keeping an eye on haul vlogging in the future, so let us know if you have favorites in the comments. In the meantime, we'll be contemplating a haul series of our own about the hidden treasures (see here and here) in this city's American Apparels.

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Who Threw a Cat at Vivienne Westwood?

We've seen all sorts of craziness at shows — we were even bonked on the head at Betsey Johnson's by a giant inflatable heart. But we've never seen a stuffed animal pelted at a designer before. At the Vivienne Westwood show in Paris, some would-be assassin threw (with terrible aim, we might add) his/her furry projectile. Is this the work of PETA? A crazy cat lady? Luckily, the kitty ninja was thwarted — the cat barely brushed Ms. Viv's shoulder. The model next to her picked up the furry weapon and all was right with the world. A friend of Nylon's caught the entire thing on video for your viewing pleasure.

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Sarah Jessica Parker Wore Chanel Temporary Tattoos; Step-by-Step Directions for Getting Paris Runway Hair

Sarah Jessica Parker's bun and temporary tattoo.

SKIN
• Sarah Jessica Parker complemented her Chanel Couture gown last night at the Oscars by wearing Chanel temporary tattoos on her wrist. [Beauty Counter/Style.com]

HAIR
• Hairstylist Bob Recine said he created the "anti-hair" look for the Emanuel Ungaro show today in Paris. Meanwhile, makeup artist Carole Lasnier went for a "very girly" look at the show by dabbing pink cream color on lips and applying white loose powder on faces. [WWD]

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Viktor & Rolf Dressed Their Models on the Runway

Rolf Snoeren and Viktor Horsting put on a fantastic fall 2010 show over the weekend in Paris. Rather than just dress some girls backstage and parade them around, they dressed them onstage and then paraded them around. Kristen McMenamy came onto the runway wearing most of the fall 2010 collection. Viktor and Rolf came out with her and proceeded to peeled the layers off her to put on the other models, including Karlie Kloss and others, who came out wearing shoes, black leotards, and black leather baseball hats. The headwear coupled with the backdrop of illustrated machinery and the models' Blue Steel expressions gave the show a "Rhythm Nation" vibe, but with more fur, more leg, and, sadly, much less synchronized dancing. Check it out in the video.

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Abbey Lee Kershaw Isn’t Ashamed of Her Purple Orgy Shoot

Model Abbey Lee, who has a pet lizard and a tattoo inside her bottom lip that says "truth" but "reads more like 'bacon,'" on her famous recent Purple shoot: "Terry [Richardson] doesn’t force girls to do anything they don’t want to. He puts you in a G-string in a pile of mud because you want to do it. You touch yourself because you want to. For me, that shoot was the truth about how things were between us both, and I felt good doing it. I’m not ashamed of it — why should I be?” [Times UK]

Fantastic Man’s Lady Version to Hit Stands Soon

The Gentlewoman is the lady counterpart to Dutch magazine Fantastic Man. Celine designer Phoebe Philo landed the cover; she posed in her own clothes and some new and vintage Celine things for her shoot with David Sims. Though it's not called Fantastic Woman, the biannual magazine's editor-in-chief, Penny Martin, says, "It’s about modernity and women that are just fantastic." The first issue comes out March 22. [WWD]

Cathy Horyn and André Leon Talley Didn’t Hate Last Night’s Oscar Fashion

Sarah Jessica Parker, Jennifer Lopez, and Sandra Bullock.Photo: Getty Images

Both Times fashion critic Horyn and Vogue editor André Leon Talley have previously bemoaned red-carpet fashion this awards season. Horyn wondered if the good designers were avoiding loaning dresses, while Talley compared more than one actress's red-carpet look to food — and no woman would relish a "roadside-diner peach melba" comparison. However, the two seem more or less pleased overall with what they saw last night. Horyn, who watched from Paris, found the gown parade "pretty funny":

Here were all these gorgeous women with great bodies — I mean, we constantly hear about their workout routines, diets, etc. — and most of them were awash in ruffles and soupy drapery.

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A Hurt Locker Writer’s Tuxedo Horror

In 2004, Oscar-winning Hurt Locker writer-producer Mark Boal spent weeks in Iraq risking his life as an embedded reporter with a U.S. bomb-disposal unit like the one seen in his movie — but even that was insufficient training for the anxiety that would come with owning and properly caring for an expensive tuxedo. In a pretty hilarious front-page "Sunday Styles" piece in yesterday's Times, Boal enumerates to Brooks Barnes the stresses of being a regular schlub running the awards-season gauntlet: "I fully understand how lucky I am," he says. "On the other hand, it's astonishing how grueling the process can become. I think there were 10 black-tie events in January alone."

"One day, in a pinch, he tried to wash and iron the shirt himself." »

Jean Paul Gaultier’s Target Collection Already Selling Out

If you want a piece of Gaultier's Target line we suggest you hurry and order, because the leather moto jacket and stained leather jacket are already out of stock. The leggings and bikini top pictured here are also sold out. So Godspeed. [Official site, Nitrolicious]

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Writer
Amy Odell
Fashion Editor
Amina Akhtar
Assistant Editor
Sharon Clott

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