It can't be said that Jonathan Saunders is a minimalist, exactly — there are too many accordion pleats, too many bits of trim for that. But he designs with an economy of line and silhouette that calls to mind the work of master minimalists Calvin Klein and Jil Sander. The best description, perhaps, is urban. There is something in his dresses that feels architectural, like a great steel and glass skyscraper: nothing wasted, nothing off. Everything was narrow and sleek, with a definitive mid-calf hemline and a somber, muddy palette heavy on camel and aubergine. Lean cashmere coats were finished with fantastically lush fur hoods.

It was a confident and assured New York debut for the designer, who lives and works in East London. Such grown-up, well-considered clothes, unconcerned with celebrity or pomp, make a welcome addition to the calendar. —Amy Larocca