other critics
Critics Praise Prabal Gurung’s Risky Gowns, Lust After Wes Gordon’s Coats
From left: Prabal Gurung, Wes Gordon, Doo.Ri
The critics were largely pleased with the latest shows, from Prabal Gurung's romantic riff on Great Expectations to Doo.Ri's moody — though hit-and-miss — gowns. Read on for the highlights.
THE HITS:
Prabal Gurung
• "
delightful
a current of eccentricity, that infused Gurung’s polished lady fare with a newfound youth and modernity
a collection filled with personality. And if once or twice he went too far, overall, it was a pleasure to view such distinctive, pretty clothes." [WWD]
• "[T]oday's reference point — Great Expectations' tragically faded Miss Havisham — was an unexpected and potentially risky choice…If the zipper embellishments … erred on the gimmicky side, Gurung captured the disintegration that was central to Miss Havisham's character in a more believable way with dégradé furs ... [H]e deserves points for flaring trousers with an ultra-flattering fit. [Style.com]
• "Gurung's showing today marked a return to beguiling eveningwear, after last season's foray into spirited sportswear. It also proved the point that good designers can create beauty from the most tragic of inspirations…[a] sexual and alluring collection." [Vogue U.K.]
Wes Gordon
• "This tableau hit a balance — between young and old, luxe and everyday — that Gordon's clothing does, as well … Everyone needs a statement coat, and Gordon showed a wealth of toppers here … It's this kind of versatility that has made Gordon a hit." [Style.com]
• "Wes Gordon has come into his own … a modern, relevant approach." [WWD]
• "Mr. Gordon’s strength is tailoring. You can tell he has taste … His jackets have oomph: sharp shoulders, neat waists. But he struggles in the dress department when he tries to go soft." [NYT]
• " ... polished, well-priced basics for twenty and thirtysomethings … For Fall, he played with both evening and statement coats to luminous effect … If his high-waisted pants (in that perfect, early sixties silhouette that shows off all your best shoes) look as good on a size 8 as they do on those models, then Gordon is really in business." [Fashion Week Daily]
MIXED:
Doo.Ri
• "[H]er color scheme quickly shifted into monochrome-zone where oversized, chunky layers of charcoal, gray and midnight made it tricky to decipher between outerwear and ready-to-wear … While loosely cut ill-fitting pants only added to the voluminous blur, the centered piping and thick black cuffs proved a note-worthy success … it was a pleasure to see her tread some new water." [Fashion Wire Daily]
• "Doo-Ri Chung expanded beyond her deft draping skills this season…[Thigh-high boots] didn’t challenge the moody, pared-down sophistication of Chung’s collection." [Fashion Week Daily]
• "[I]n a nice change of pace, she was operating with a little more abandon … Sometimes Chung misfired, as in overlong coats and dresses, flapped at the bottom, that had the models tripping over themselves as they walked…the outerwear was outstanding … There was nothing earth-shattering about these pieces, but they had a real sense of drama." [Style.com]
• "Lines were longer and leaner than ever, and were quite strong when she didn’t drown the silhouette in excess draping or clunky fabrics, which was sometimes the case." [WWD]
• "Robes would be an apt way to describe this strong and moody collection … the word we kept coming back to while watching the show was "tactile", for this is a deceptively sensual collection that begs to be touched, tried on and lived in, day after day." [Vogue U.K.]
