The Rogan mêlée spills out the front doors and onto the Bowery's freshly gentrified sidewalk.Photo: Piera Gelardi, Refinery29

Far from the rarefied air of Barneys, where his Target line will go on sale on Friday, the enviro-friendly designer seemed quite at home in his new retail space, which featured "green" dual-flush toilets (thank you oh so much). Located in the old Bouwerie Lane Theater, the store is a minimalist match to Gregory's aesthetic, featuring a mirrored back wall (with which several partygoers collided) and sharp metal racks for the clothes (which we can only presume were fabulous, as the party was too packed to see a single thread). But what of the gentrification of New York's beloved, unwashed Bowery? Gregory, who stocked his bar with 40-ounce malt-liquor bottles, was appropriately attuned. "Bowery is a little cracky, but it's got soul and integrity," he said. "I only hope we can contribute to that." Certainly the forties were a good first step. —Gabriel Bell

Head cutter John Byrne (left) goes over fabric samples with a client.Photo: Gabriel Bell

For about £2,500 — $5,000 in the colonies — the team will construct a suit from scratch in the customer's choice of chambray, mohair, or Loro Piana cashmere. Of course, having your tailor on the other side of the Atlantic does slow down the process somewhat. "Normally, we'd do two fittings for a new customer, but we'll be back in September and February, so it could be a bit of wait. But it is for something … special," explained Tarling. "I consider it an investment," said one loitering customer, stroking the sleeve of a ten-year-old checked Smith suit for emphasis.

Across the room, head cutter John Byrne draped a yellow measuring tape around the waist of Ted,* a professional in his mid-thirties who arrived at the fitting wearing a blue version of Tarling's pin-striped, silk-lined Smith suit. So, given the current exchange rate and tottering local economy, what species of New Yorker enters the showroom with sufficient fortune to purchase three suits including brace-button, flat-front trousers with zip flies? "I'm in … insurance," Ted said with a wide smile. —Gabriel Bell

*Name changed by request, presumably because he was spending his morning getting fitted for a gorgeous suit rather than pushing paper at the office. Our type of guy, really.

Related: Me, My Suit, and I [NYM]

Photo: Patrick McMullan

Nina Garcia Said to Be Out at Elle Sources say editor and title have parted ways.

Speechless, jaws dropped, etc. But this happens after months of speculation, Garcia's maternity leave, creative director Joe Zee's arrival — and, though Nina was in the offices this morning, by the afternoon the office was in full-blown rumor-mill mode about her departure. And there you have it. Now you've got something to talk about over after-work drinks!

Special Saturday Update: This intel just landed in the comments:

From someone in the know, her office was entirely boxed, packed, and waiting in the hallways addressed to her home on the upper east by 5pm yesterday. Plus, the gaggle of crying assistants dragging deflated cardboard down the hall for assembly, in addition to Nina's demonstrative speaking behind closed doors (made visible by a glass partition) also prompts one to believe that she was not leaving of her own accord.

Nina Garcia Said to Be Out at Elle [WWD]

Today in Diffusion News, Botkier will partner with Target for a limited-edition handbag collection:

MINNEAPOLIS (March 2008) Target is partnering with renowned accessories designer Monica Botkier to launch a limited-edition handbag collection, Botkier for Target. This collection is the fifth handbag launch in a series of limited-time-only accessories designers at Target. The Botkier for Target collection will be available at select Target stores nationwide and at Target.com July 21 through Sept. 14, 2008.

Not much of a window there — we suspect the girls on Atlantic Avenue will get a little grabby.

Paulo Melim AnderssonPhoto: Getty Images

MacGibbon was a key member of the design team under former creative director Phoebe Philo, and helped define the hip femininity that catapulted Chloé to fashion’s big leagues.

Melim Andersson, who joined Chloé from Marni in 2006, showed three collections for the house and received mixed reviews.

This places another woman designer at the top of a major fashion house, following Alessandra Fachinetti promotion's at Valentino.

Chloe Taps New Designer [WWD]

Photo: AFP/Getty Images

Katoucha [...] disappeared near her houseboat in Paris earlier this month, French police said on Thursday.

She had been missing since returning to the houseboat moored near the city centre after a party earlier this month.

"There are indications that it is indeed her, but we are awaiting the results of forensic tests before we can confirm it officially," a police spokesman said.

Katoucha was one of the first black African models to reach stardom on the runway in the eighties and was an activist against genital mutilation. Sad. Considering the pale, pale runways right now, extra sad.

Body In River May Be Missing Model: French Police [NYT]

Bags upon bags of handbags upon handbagsPhoto: Everett Bogue

Earlier: No More Fake Louis! The City Shutters 32 Canal Street Counterfeiters

Send Barneys your cold, your non-poor, your huddled masses yearning to spend free.Photo: Melissa Hom

More from the line: "A young woman named Nina, in her early to mid twenties, is at the front of the line. She's wearing a big furry hood and has been there since SIX IN THE MORNING. She loves labels, has been coming to the sale for years. Favorite past buy: $170 pair of strappy Manolos. Nina's tip for other shoppers: Come earlier." Like 5 a.m.? Hard-core, people.

7:48 a.m.: Now there are well over 100 people in line — the hungry masses are multiplying at a rapid rate. You can hear a constant, excited murmur about shoes. One pair of girls came from Long Island on a 5:30 a.m. train. Day one is for browsing, they say, and then they'll come back to make purchases from whatever's left on the last day. A fairy tale of a plan, perhaps, but who are we to dismiss another shopper's dream?

7:55 a.m.: Security is getting skittish. They've no idea if people are rushing in all at once, Braveheart style. Maybe it's the chill, but the crowd is increasingly antsy. We sense disorganization. Chaos looms.