From left, Basso & Brooke, Giles Deacon, Gareth Pugh.Photo: Imaxtree

Which is why we felt let down early in the week. Where were the rat wraps? The see-through vinyl shower curtains doubling as dresses? The Mad Max–inspired makeup? Was it possible London had become … respectable? Paul Smith, who last season offered up lesbians in twenties tenniswear, this time sent out perfectly lovely cocktail dresses. Nicole Farhi's collection of outerwear — cropped jackets and cocooning coats — was … nice.

From left, Anna Sui, Calvin Klein, Zac PosenPhoto: imaxtree.com

At Calvin Klein, critics marveled at Francisco Costa’s geometric minimalism and also admired Vera Wang’s newfound sensuality. Anna Sui proved quirky but entertaining to most critics, while Zac Posen’s clothes raised brows and questions. See what well-chosen adjectives made it to press in our review roundup.

Cocooning chic, courtesy of Costa.Photo: Getty Images

Browse a slideshow of the Calvin Klein show.

From left, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marchesa, Rodarte.Photo: imaxtree.com

Perhaps giddy from the unseasonable weather, critics were warm to Michael Kors and Rodarte and practically red-hot with lust for Marchesa and Marc by Marc Jacobs. Consider these adjectives (used in reviews) in order of increasing positivity: “almost camp,” “high-polish,” and “exuberant.” Find out which designer drove critics to the thesaurus in our review roundup.

A winning evening dress sparkles in paillettes.Photo: Imaxtree

Today's collection was not Wang's strongest: Her typically light hand was somehow heavy. Fabric appliqués were bulky, and a yellow brocade that ran through the collection was harsh. The collection was inspired by the Dutch painter Kess van Dongen, but his colors are far more appealing on canvas than on clothes, where they came off as dark and sometimes dour.

Taken apart, there are great pieces, particularly a short and short-sleeved broadtail jacket put cleverly atop a navy coat. The sheer, layered evening dresses were also worth noting, particularly one covered in this season's answer to after-dark, shiny silver paillettes.
—Amy Larocca

Browse a slideshow of the Vera Wang collection.
Watch a video of the Vera Wang collection.

The new mainstay. Enjoy.Photo: Getty Images.

Lam's show this evening officially announced his point of view, something he’s been working toward for several seasons now. And it is this: extremely feminine (flounced skirts, high ruffled necks), massively luxurious (the fabrics are epic in their richness), and heavy on detail, both in the tailoring and the embellishment. It's a very specific take on glamour and suggests a woman who is acutely conscious of the feel of her clothes. Standout pieces included an embellished black cocktail dress with a sheer yoke as well as epically luscious velvet evening gowns (one in navy, the other in black) with the most magical underlayer of stiff, accordion pleats in ivory silk. That petticoat moved so beautifully it suggested a whole new (and perfectly beguiling) focal point. The styling was sexy and yet Victorian, with rich velvet dresses, dark lips, and chokers. Who wouldn't want to look like this? —Amy Larocca

Browse a slideshow of the Derek Lam collection.

So pretty you almost can't even wear it.Photo: Imaxtree

Rodarte's signature look is dreamy: net, tulle, hand-done appliqués. When heavy-handed, the effect is hokey. But this season, it was as if they'd taken a deep breath and thought hard about a sleeker, lighter silhouette. The effect was elating — airy knits, cobwebbed crochets. Evening dresses were a pastiche of tulle and net and unfinished yarn. They were light and, when full, resembled nothing so much as a Degas dancer. In several instances, the knits were paired with satin stovepipe trousers, which brought the fairyland effect right back to earth. A passage of three floor-length gowns closed the show, and it was hard to tell if their backs were full because of the lightest breath of tulle, or through some other genius bit of construction. Either way, they earned an extra round of applause. These clothes are luxurious, and they are unaffordable. But they will not ever become for the masses; they will never trickle down. For most of us, these clothes are for admiring from afar. —Amy Larocca

From left, Diane Von Furstenberg, DKNY, Hervé Léger.Photo: imaxtree.com

Big Names are showing daily, and the critics are quick to praise or pick apart. Diane Von Furstenberg's femme-fatale look was lauded, but Max Azria’s resurrection of the Hervé Léger label was mixed. Jonathan Saunders charmed most reviewers, but not Cathy Horyn. And Donna Karan’s time-traveling collection was confusing to all but WWD.