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Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

5/16/08

NewsFeed 

5/16/08

6:00 PM

Jimmy’s in Bout With the Buildings Department

It's been a rough week for Jimmy's; customers crowded the East Village gastropub on Monday for a bacon, beer, and cheese festival when a fire marshal chased everybody out. (We were present, pontificating about bacon, but weren't given any explanation for what the problem was.) Jimmy's has been dark since then. As an Eater post today points out, a sign on the door indicates that the restaurant will open on Tuesday, May 20. But Jimmy says it might be as late as Wednesday, depending on the whims of the city's Buildings Department. "We were vacated because the landlord had not maintained a basement-side alley exit; there wasn't a clear way out for either us or the other tenants," he explains. The alley's been cleared out in anticipation of a hearing on Tuesday. We hope Jimmy reopens soon; we'd hate to see his secret chef cooking in a real kitchen at this point.

Jimmy's No. 43 Update: Reopening Tuesday [Eater]
Related: Jimmy's Secret Chef Performs Culinary Miracles in the East Village

NewsFeed 

5/16/08

5:40 PM

Vintner Robert Mondavi Dead at 94

The name Robert Mondavi may mean inexpensive California wine to a lot of people, but the vintner, who died today at the age of 94, was responsible for making Napa Valley known internationally as a great wine-making region. He was inducted into the CIA's Vintner's Hall of Fame in 2007, an honor Mondavi's wife called “a pearl in the crown of our family's winemaking history in the Napa Valley.”

Winemaker Robert Mondavi Dead at 94 [NYT]

NewsFeed 

5/16/08

4:30 PM

Brooklyn Needs Its Supermarkets, and Badly

key food

It may not be Whole Foods, but…Photo: Petroleumjelliffe's Flickr

Some of us who live in Brooklyn tend to think of our supermarkets more as burdens to be endured that boons to be appreciated. (If you ever looked in the meat aisle of the Ditmas Park Key Food, you’d know what we mean.) But let even a bad supermarket disappear, and you have a major blow to a community, as two stories in this week’s Brooklyn Paper show. Out in Bay Ridge, neighbors are petitioning against the closing of a Key Food on Third Avenue and 95th Street, which is slated to become a Walgreens. “We don’t need a pharmacy — we need a grocery store,” says one resident. “That property has been a grocery store for over 50 years, and it should stay a grocery store.” Meanwhile, over in Brooklyn Heights, a Gristedes closed by a fire is of such vital importance to the neighborhood that construction crews are working around the clock to get the place back online. “I hate dragging heavy stuff like a gallon of milk from Montague Street,” says a local. You can do without a dry cleaner, and you can do without a cool bar, but live somewhere where there’s no supermarket, and you’re in a tough spot, FreshDirect or no.

Key Food Fight
Gristedes Will Reopen [Brooklyn Paper]

Two for Eight 

5/16/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Borough Food & Drink and the E.U.; the Little Owl Fully Booked

It’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Neighborhood Chic.

From Accademia di Vino to Sfoglia. »

NewsFeed 

5/16/08

3:30 PM

Customers Sense Something Fishy About Restaurant Urinal

fish and urinal

This almost makes us want to work in China.Photo: iStockphoto

We used to pen a column called Restroom Report, and sometimes on Fridays our mind still turns to crap. (Wait, that didn’t sound right — you know, we get pee on the brain. Wait.) Today is just such a day, and so we turn your attention to a restaurant in China that keeps twenty fish in its urinal trough. Wha-wha-WHAAT? And here we thought the fish tank in the men’s room at Tropical Billiards was trippy!

TSK! Chinese restaurant keep live fish.....in a URINAL! [Wabby]

Neighborhood Watch 

5/16/08

3:00 PM

Oven-Equipped Food Truck for Sale; Scarpetta Off to Strong Start

East Village: Telephone Bar & Grill is hosting a benefit for the children of Nepal on Sunday, June 1. [Grub Street]
Hell's Kitchen: Soho's Mooncake Foods has opened a second, much larger location at 263 West 30th Street. [Flickr]
Lower East Side: Good luck re-creating wd~50's recipe for almond-ice-cream "rocks," which calls for twenty grams of dextrose and bitter foam, among other ingredients. [Restaurant Girl]
Meatpacking District: Scarpetta's off to a strong start. Even if someone steals a slice of steak from you. [Eater]
Midtown East: The Pranzo pizza truck is missing, because it's up for sale. [Midtown Lunch]
Midtown West: On Monday, a theater company will perform bits from its upcoming adaptation of Molière's Monsieur de Pourceaugnac at D'Or, in the Dream Hotel. [Zagat Buzz]
Nolita: The bartenders at the reincarnated Randolph, which will open at 319 Broome Street this weekend, have a Milk & Honey pedigree and the best in specialty ice, which is made to melt slower, so your drink stays colder (and less watery) longer. [Grub Street]
Tribeca: West Broadway's getting a Le Pain Quotidien; this could fill the void of the Chambers Street Ceci-Cela, which closed late last year due to rising rents. [Eater]
West Village: Pichet Ong serves serves house-made ginger, passion fruit, and calamansi sodas at P*Ong. [Grub Street]

NewsFeed 

5/16/08

2:30 PM

Sfoglia Owner Accused of Stealing Mario Batali’s Torta

It may not be as bad as Cindy McCain ripping off dessert recipes from the Food Network's Website, but Sfoglia owner Ron Suhanosky is getting some heat for doing the same with Mario Batali’s goat-cheese torta. According to The Boston Globe, Suhanosky did the dessert, which appears in The Babbo Cookbook, on The Martha Stewart Show. Suhanosky, for his part, is uncowed, saying, “How do they know Batali didn't take it from me? People can think what they want to think,” before then quickly reversing himself, and adding, “Everyone in this business uses other people's recipes.” Now there’s a ringing denial!

A Recipe for Bad Manners? [Boston Globe]

NewsFeed 

5/16/08

1:40 PM

Park Slope Food Co-op Says, ‘H2NO!’

bottled water

Photo: iStockphoto

The famously stringent Park Slope Food Co-op is giving those who hate it one more reason to hate it and those who love it one more reason to love it by joining restaurants like the Waverly Inn and Gemma in ceasing the sale of bottled water (as The Brooklyn Paper points out, 30 million bottles end up in landfills every day, which wastes enough petroleum over the course of a year to fuel 100,000 cars). The paper asks whether the co-op is guilty of “hydro-hypocrisy,” since it didn’t bother looking for an environmentally sound water; the co-op responds that it’s less about environmentalism and more about an investment in New York City tap. Don’t look for Evian’s “palace bottle” there anytime soon.

Banned! Food Co-op no longer bottled up [Brooklyn Paper]

NewsFeed 

5/16/08

12:40 PM

A First Look at Salon De Ning, Opening Tonight

Salon de Ning

This almost makes us want to work in midtown.Photo: Melissa Hom

Ladies and gents, let us present to you Salon de Ning. Tonight, she replaces Pen-Top on the roof of the Hotel Peninsula. Ain’t she a beauty? Forecast calls for rain, but, as you can see from the following first photos, indoor seating abounds.

Cocktail and food menus. »

NewsFeed 

5/16/08

11:45 AM

The Night That the Lights Went Out in Allen & Delancey

allen and delancey

It wasn't this bright last night.Photo: Noah Sheldon

It’s a good thing that Allen & Delancey has all those candles there, because, according to the Observer’s Doree Shafrir, who wrote about it on her own blog, the lights went out last night and didn’t come back on for some time. This was probably all right with the various canoodling couples, but we feel for the sad sack who saved up the money to experience Neil Ferguson’s justly famous food, and then had to sit and gnaw on it in the dark. Of course, the outage might have allowed him to taste the food free from the sight of amorous trustifarians, which can take the edge off even the finest food.

Update: As Shafrir's post makes clear, Allen & Delancey did in fact eventually clear everybody out. The image of a man sitting in the dark eating Neil Ferguson's food was one we projected wishfully onto ourselves. Apparently, no one did it for more than a little while.

Electric Company [Doree Chronicles]

Mediavore 

5/16/08

10:00 AM

Free Falafel Today; Food Fests Galore

• Don’t let the free-food giveaways end! Stop by Kosher Village and get a free falafel. [Gothamist]
Related: Kosher Village: We Feel Awful. Have a Free Falafel.

• The next time you reach for those Nacho Cheese Doritos, pair them with a glass a Pinot Gris. [Mouthing Off/Food & Wine]

• There are lots of food fests to hit up this weekend, including the Taste of Tribeca, Ninth Avenue International Food Fest, and Cuisine of Queens and Beyond. [Serious Eats]

Tribeca loses another affordable option. »

Ask a Waiter 

5/16/08

9:30 AM

Adour Wine Director Thomas Combescot Isn't Sweating the Computer

Thomas Combescot

"How I feel doesn't matter. The point is for people to be happy. "Photo: Melissa Hom

Thomas Combescot was named Best Young Sommelier in his hometown of Burgundy before stepping onto the floor of Alain Ducasse at the Essex House. After the restaurant closed in early 2007, Ducasse asked the 29-year-old to cultivate a selection of Northern Hemisphere wines at his new place Adour. We asked Combescot about customer tastes, Adour’s robo-sommeliers, and how he tolerates wine faux pas. Word to the wise: Don't turn pour Coke into one of his $2,000 to $10,000 Domaine de la Romanée-Contis. —Alexandra Vallis

"The guest wasn't even American." »

NewsFeed 

5/16/08

9:10 AM

Chowhound Parent CNET Sold to CBS

Had you been taking bets, circa 2000, which foodie Website would eventually be owned by CBS, only a Nostradamus (or rather, a Gastrodamus) would have picked Chowhound, a bare-bones, unmediated bulletin board where people compared notes about shawarma. But yesterday CBS bought Chowhound's parent CNET for $1.88 billion. On the Chowhound board, owner Jim Leff spoke out on the subject, playing both the corporate strategist (“we need more international penetration”) and also the insular Internet food geek (“What we don't need, however, is a broader slice of diners participating. A real flood of unsavvy diners could dilute the knowledge level”). The truth is that Chowhound has never been the same since it was absorbed by CNET's Chow property in 2006, and not just because of its notoriously difficult navigation and search issues. There are still great Chowhound posters and Chowhound threads — if we wanted to find the best new Taiwanese oyster pancakes in Flushing, it would still be our first stop. But the site is already so diffuse and depersonalized that big media ownership may actually help — or at least, not make it any worse.

CBS in $1.8B deal for online news, info site CNet [SF Gate via Eater SF]

5/15/08

Chefwatch 

5/15/08

5:00 PM

Morimoto’s American Tag Team Have ‘Spirit and Heart’

jamison blankenship and robby cook

Jamison Blankenship, left, and Robby Cook, right: the men behind Morimoto.Photo: Melissa Hom

Each week, we highlight one (or, in this case, two) of the city’s great — but obscure — young chefs.

Names: Jamison Blankenship and Robert Cook

Age: 37 and 29, respectively

Restaurant: Morimoto

Backgrounds: Blankenship, Morimoto’s chef de cuisine, grew up in New Orleans, but didn't start in the restaurant business until he was 31. He worked in Washington’s famous Citronelle, and for two years had his own restaurant in D.C., before joining Morimoto as a sous-chef when it opened two years ago.

Cook, the restaurant's head sushi chef, had a Lana Turner moment as a sushi assistant at Koi: Masaharu Morimoto came in, saw Cook working the line, and offered him a job on the spot.

"I believe he is one of the best American sushi chefs." »

The In-box 

5/15/08

4:45 PM

Hey! What Do You Have Against the Bronx?

Reader Nicole Mancini took umbrage at our hasty dismissal of the Bronx's underdog wins in the Post's pizza and burger sweepstakes the other day. She writes,

I was born and raised in the Bronx and I'm sick and tired of its bad rep. I love Grub Street. I check it everyday; but, to open it today and read that, "somebody better find out what neighborhood Carla Spartos comes from", because she picked the Bronx for best pizza and burger is beyond disappointing to me. Perhaps Zero Otto Nove decided to open on West 10th and Bleecker, I'm sure the win would not come as such a shocker. However Zero Otto Nove is located on Arthur Avenue, the main street of the Belmont section of the Bronx, and the heart of the Real Little Italy. Coals may be located right outside a bunch of auto repair zones, but what better place to open to feed a hungry car mechanic with a delicious burger? The Bronx is also home to City Island, a mini seaside town with dozens of seafood restaurants to choose from. We have Pelham Bay Park, the biggest park in NYC. We have The Bronx Zoo and the Botanical Gardens. We have the Yankees (even though they are overpaid and seat prices are ridiculous). We have Stanley Kubrick, Calvin Klein, Billy Joel, Regis Philbin, Colin Powell, and Edgar Allen Poe for crying out loud.
We're a borough of old Italian grandmothers who are willing to feed you at any time of the day. We love our food, just as much as the next person trying to get a reservation at Momofuku Ko, but instead of writing about it on Yelp or the next food blog, we talk about it over five hour Sunday dinners with the family.I just hope you guys can give us more credit next time.
P.S. We're not all in the Mafia, either.

We take it back, Nicole!

Earlier: Bronx Does Pizza and Burgers Better, According to ‘Post’


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Recent Posts:

NewsFeed

6:00 PM

Jimmy’s in Bout With the Buildings Department

NewsFeed

5:40 PM

Vintner Robert Mondavi Dead at 94

NewsFeed

4:30 PM

Brooklyn Needs Its Supermarkets, and Badly

Two for Eight

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Borough Food & Drink and the E.U.; the Little Owl Fully Booked

NewsFeed

3:30 PM

Customers Sense Something Fishy About Restaurant Urinal

Neighborhood Watch

3:00 PM

Oven-Equipped Food Truck for Sale; Scarpetta Off to Strong Start

NewsFeed

2:30 PM

Sfoglia Owner Accused of Stealing Mario Batali’s Torta

NewsFeed

1:40 PM

Park Slope Food Co-op Says, ‘H2NO!’

NewsFeed

12:40 PM

A First Look at Salon De Ning, Opening Tonight

NewsFeed

11:45 AM

The Night That the Lights Went Out in Allen & Delancey

Mediavore

10:00 AM

Free Falafel Today; Food Fests Galore

Ask a Waiter

9:30 AM

Adour Wine Director Thomas Combescot Isn't Sweating the Computer

NewsFeed

9:10 AM

Chowhound Parent CNET Sold to CBS

Chefwatch

5:00 PM

Morimoto’s American Tag Team Have ‘Spirit and Heart’

The In-box

4:45 PM

Hey! What Do You Have Against the Bronx?

NewsFeed

4:30 PM

Drinks Are on the House If You Name Galapagos 2.0

NewsFeed

4:15 PM

Hundred Acres Opens Thursday; Tables Aplenty

Two for Eight

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Craftbar; Gramercy Tavern and Union Square Café Mostly Booked

Back of the House

3:30 PM

Defeated Cheftestant Just Wants to Help Fat Cops

Neighborhood Watch

3:00 PM

Self-serve Model for Frozen Yogurt Causes Stir in the East Village; Junior's Doesn't Have a Good Burger, Either