Upper East Side grandees are fond of each other's company and eat at restaurants like Nello to make sure they get it. Why else would anyone pay $22 for a celery heart or $38 for spaghetti with clam sauce? But we thought that even the lonely and ultrarich might balk at the new $750 Kobe steak that, according to "Page Six," the restaurant is now serving. Given that the best of these steaks seldom top $125 in town, how can Nello justify the price? "It's a small quantity of product that's available," owner Nello Balan tells us, as if that justified anything more than the going rate. "They distribute it all over from Moscow to Paris to New York. It's a novelty." A novelty it may be to Balan's crowd, but the rest of New York has pretty much gotten the whole Kobe thing by now. And yet, there's no arguing with Nello's results: "We sell ten or fifteen a day." At least the rich aren't always getting richer.

Steer Heaven [NYP]