We visited the new pressed-sandwich emporium Swich last night, as promised, and owner John Gargiulo walked us through the menu that we advised him on lo these many months ago. Gargiulo kept his own counsel: His dozen or so sandwiches don't closely resemble any of the city classics we told him we love. The best one, a simple number composed of Joe's Dairy mozzarella, proscuitto di Parma, and ripe beefsteak tomatoes, was extraordinary; the lesser items were good, too. Owing to the restaurant's intense planning and design, nicely executed details abound, from the intensely crisp and salty fresh potato chips to the TV screen showing original Dada-style videos behind the counter and what is definitely the most powerful automatic hand-dryer in the universe. The fast-foodie shop is so well thought-out that we're guessing it's the pilot for a national franchise. But you can judge for yourself, starting tomorrow.

Swich, 104 Eighth Ave., nr. 15th St.; 212-488-4800.