Making sure to mention chef Jason Neroni's desperate call for Beard nominations — the one revealed on Grub Street — Bruni gives Porchetta a single star and calls Neroni “overly insistent.” [NYT]

In all-tofu dessert spot Kyotofu, Meehan finds a pudding paradise. Though he issues some of the most enthusiastic praise we've heard from him lately, he also cautions that the savory dishes are just “perfunctory.” [NYT]

Wobbly tables don't get in the way of Paul Adams’s appreciation of new Soho Moroccan joint Babouche. [NYS]

Cuozzo loves Pera, makes it sound as if it's the first-ever high-end Turkish restaurant. Orhan Yegan of Divane and Beyoglu must have steam coming out of his ears. [NYP]

Sietsema rarely meets a barbecue he doesn’t like, and Brooklyn's Smoke Joint proves no exception. The evil Cookshack smoker, condemned in our 2006 wish list, makes a cameo appearance. [VV]

Randall Lane delivers yet another approving but ultimately unenthusiastic review of the “impeccable, if clinical” Gordon Ramsay. The Brit just can't win! [TONY]
Related: Gordon Ramsay, Gay Icon