Christmas comes in January for Danny Meyer, as Bruni awards both Eleven Madison Park and the Bar Room at the Modern three stars. [NYT]

Using the Theory of Relativity, Sietsema explains why Kampuchea is special without really being special at all. [VV]

Alan Richman jumps on the Russian Tea Room with both feet. Key words: “gummy,” “inedible,” and “your grocer’s freezer.” [Bloomberg]

Peter Meehan enjoys the “tonier, more citified treatment” Zoma gives Ethiopian food. [NYT]

Paul Adams has a deep appreciation for Klee Brasserie chef Daniel Angerer's just being himself. [NYS]

For Kate Julian, Cafe Cluny is just another wannabistro, and not a very good one at that. [NYer]

Steve Cuozzo isn’t impressed with the Waverly Inn, no matter who eats there. [NYP]

Randall Lane, though, liked it a lot. And he just happened to be a walk-in. Isn’t that special! [TONY]