Cole Porter immortalized the eggs of the Atlantic Shad in “Let’s Do It” — “Waiter, bring me shad roe” — and New Yorkers have treasured them for generations. Yesterday, the fish arrived at Grand Central Oyster Bar bearing their precious cargo of firm, nutty-tasting eggs. As for the herringlike fish itself, it’s bony and hard to prepare, and for those reasons not prized. It does have devotees, though, and they take it without any sauce or seasoning. The Oyster Bar serves boned shad with bacon and tomato.

In Season: Shad Roe [NYM]