The fullest account yet of the debacle that is the new Russian Tea Room. Gary Robins comes out looking far more sinned against than sinning, and the owner comes out looking like a jerk. [NYP]

A blue-ribbon panel including Mario Batali, Bill Telepan, and Danny Meyer study the question of whether it’s possible to open a restaurant under the radar. The near unanimous answer is no. Will Goldfarb suggests one way: “Do it in Queens.” [Snack]

Pichet Ong formerly of Spice Market is the first of the hot pastry chefs to open his own restaurant, the eponymous P*ong. Rivals Sam Mason and Jehangir Mehta (formerly of Aix) are close behind. [NYS]
Related: The Launch [Grub Street]

Meehan and Bruni continue their Siskel-and-Ebert routine, this time criticizing the burgers at brgr, which they like a lot less than Stand: “Its rest-stop food. It’s highway desperation. And that burger sauce is like candy.” [NYT]

The world's greatest chefs gather in Monte Carlo to fête Paul Bocuse on his 81st birthday, and to celebrate his legacy as the father of modern haute cuisine. [NYT]

Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich win another round in their legal battle with Del Posto's landlord. He's not ready to throw in the towel just yet, however. [NYP]

So many pancakes, so little time. [NYP]

Bret Thorne goes whole hog on the Year of the Pig, rounding up special meals in places both predictable (Chinatown Brasserie) and unlikely (Porchetta). [NYS]

The Amateur Gourmet, taking a break from his haute-cuisine adventures, essays the art of drinking coffee in New York. [Serious Eats]