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Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

 

The Underground Gourmet 

3/26/07

12:30 PM

That’s Right: A Lobster-Roll-Inspired Ice-Cream Sandwich

It's like a lobster roll, but not at all.Photo: Melissa Hom

People often ask the Underground Gourmet what it takes for a sandwich to become the Sandwich of the Week. The answer is simple: It takes a sandwich maker with vision, drive, a technical mastery of sandwich-making, and a fearless, Ferran Adrià–esque sense of adventure. It takes, in short, a desire to go where no sandwich maker has gone before. Consider, for example, the case of Ed McFarland, the chef-owner of the brand-new Ed’s Lobster Bar. The former Pearl’s Oyster Bar cook was on a break one night, and instead of gossiping with the waitresses and gulping down Mountain Dew — or whatever it is that restaurant cooks drink from those plastic quart containers that you often see being passed back into the kitchen — Ed got down to business.

“It was a slow night at Pearl’s,” he says. “And, as I was munching on a hot-dog bun — I love to eat griddled hot-dog buns as a snack — I thought to myself, What would it be like if I put some ice cream in there …? ” The result was a delicious ice-cream sandwich that is kind of a wacky cross between a Sicilian brioche bun stuffed with gelato or granita and a New England lobster roll. At Ed’s Lobster Bar, this half-baked concoction has been refined to the point where it’s now offered on the chalkboard menu as a full-fledged dessert. McFarland butters and griddles both sides of a Pepperidge Farm top-loading hot-dog bun, spoons in a little chocolate sauce and three scoops of vanilla ice cream, and then drizzles a little more chocolate sauce over the top. As with any ice-cream sandwich, your first instinct is to eat it with your hands, but most of Ed’s customers use a knife and fork. “It’s pretty messy,” says McFarland. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Ed's Lobster Bar, 222 Lafayette St., nr. Spring St.; 212-343-3236

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