Is Isis Seafood a “Middle Eastern seafood” restaurant, as owner Adam Isnail described it to us, or a hookah bar along the lines of his other establishments, the two Horus Cafés? Who cares? Both clubs have considerably better food than you might expect, given their booze-and-tobacco theme, and the special emphasis being put on dining at Isis surely won’t hurt. Out of the large and eclectic menu, we expect that ethnic specialties like grilled lamb mashwi with red rice and scallop tajine will be the best. Isnail does have a warning, though: “Be ready to eat with your hands,” he tells us — traditionally, you don’t use implements with this cuisine. The place will be open until 4 a.m. seven days a week (doors open at 11 a.m.), and that extra time will come in handy: For the next two months at least, you’ll have to have your drinks beforehand — Isnail has yet to secure his liquor license.

Isis Seafood, 171 Ave. A, nr. 11th St.; 212-533-8200.