Though Varietal looked to be in for a bumpy ride when it lost chefs Ed Witt and Jordan Kahn, the ship seems to have been righted during the week that veteran chef Wayne Nish has been aboard. That was our impression, anyway, from the placid confidence with which owner Greg Hockenberry talks wine and Nish raps rabbit, in this, the latest moving picture from Grub Street Studios.

Earlier: ‘Speedy’ Wayne Nish Remakes Varietal in One Week Flat