As it has in so many other reviews, Wild Salmon's raison d'être saves it from getting hammered. The excellence of the title fish is no longer in question. [NYT]
Related: Salmon Cured? [NYM]

Borough Food and Drink meets the world of criticism with a three- (of six) star review from Randall Lane, who finds its tribute to New York’s foods redundant and “leaden.” [TONY]

On Avenue Z (where else would you expect to find him?), Sietsema alights upon Temada, one of the city's few Georgian restaurants, and is entranced by their turnovers, kebabs, and French fries. [VV]

Frank Bruni also gets around to Amalia and praises the concept of chef Ivy Stark’s dishes, but not so much the way they were executed by the line, which overcooked his swordfish. A big disappointment for Amalia, which had been looking forward to a full (positive) review. [NYT]

Paul Adams goes hook, line, and sinker for Bar Stuzzichini, which gets unalloyed praise both for its small-plates menu and its pastas and proteins. An auspicious start to the review cycle for the Flatiron fledgling. [NYS]
Related: Bar Stuzzichini Promises Conviviality, Eggplant

Zipper Tavern gave Nick Paumgarten an agreeable-sounding experience, but he came away feeling that it was uneven, ill-thought-out, and generally “all over the place,” as he heard someone say. [NYer]