Frank Bruni complains about the steak, the service, the sides, and the salad at Peter Luger but caves and hands it two stars. [NYT]

Restaurant Girl gives Elio’s two and a half stars, citing its “charming lure of old-world” Italian, code for a menu that has barely changed in 26 years. [NYDN]

Alan Richman visits Il Mulino and in crushing it strikes a blow against “this style of oversized, oversauced, overcooked cuisine” with all the force he can muster. [Bloomberg]

Robert Sietsema presents a brief history of fried food before getting around to praising Bar Fry’s wide array of tempura, even if it does stain your pants. [VV]

Saju’s long, soft launch elicits ridicule from Randall Lane: “This is middle-of-the-pack, all-over-the-map fare, at best.” [TONY]

The variety of Soto’s seafood menu sets it apart from other high-end sushi joints, but Paul Adams finds the service disgraceful. [NYS]

P*ONG proves overly complicated at times for The New Yorker’s Ligaya Mishan, but the small plates still impress: “The flavors are classic but the textures startle.” [NYer]

Peter Meehan is surprised to like Southern Hospitality ribs, provided they’re takeout. And don’t order anything else. [NYT]