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Grub Street

Edited by Josh Ozersky with Daniel Maurer

Posts for May 15, 2008

Chefwatch 

5/15/08

5:00 PM

Morimoto’s American Tag Team Have ‘Spirit and Heart’

jamison blankenship and robby cook

Jamison Blankenship, left, and Robby Cook, right: the men behind Morimoto.Photo: Melissa Hom

Each week, we highlight one (or, in this case, two) of the city’s great — but obscure — young chefs.

Names: Jamison Blankenship and Robert Cook

Age: 37 and 29, respectively

Restaurant: Morimoto

Backgrounds: Blankenship, Morimoto’s chef de cuisine, grew up in New Orleans, but didn't start in the restaurant business until he was 31. He worked in Washington’s famous Citronelle, and for two years had his own restaurant in D.C., before joining Morimoto as a sous-chef when it opened two years ago.

Cook, the restaurant's head sushi chef, had a Lana Turner moment as a sushi assistant at Koi: Masaharu Morimoto came in, saw Cook working the line, and offered him a job on the spot.

"I believe he is one of the best American sushi chefs." »

The In-box 

5/15/08

4:45 PM

Hey! What Do You Have Against the Bronx?

Reader Nicole Mancini took umbrage at our hasty dismissal of the Bronx's underdog wins in the Post's pizza and burger sweepstakes the other day. She writes,

I was born and raised in the Bronx and I'm sick and tired of its bad rep. I love Grub Street. I check it everyday; but, to open it today and read that, "somebody better find out what neighborhood Carla Spartos comes from", because she picked the Bronx for best pizza and burger is beyond disappointing to me. Perhaps Zero Otto Nove decided to open on West 10th and Bleecker, I'm sure the win would not come as such a shocker. However Zero Otto Nove is located on Arthur Avenue, the main street of the Belmont section of the Bronx, and the heart of the Real Little Italy. Coals may be located right outside a bunch of auto repair zones, but what better place to open to feed a hungry car mechanic with a delicious burger? The Bronx is also home to City Island, a mini seaside town with dozens of seafood restaurants to choose from. We have Pelham Bay Park, the biggest park in NYC. We have The Bronx Zoo and the Botanical Gardens. We have the Yankees (even though they are overpaid and seat prices are ridiculous). We have Stanley Kubrick, Calvin Klein, Billy Joel, Regis Philbin, Colin Powell, and Edgar Allen Poe for crying out loud.
We're a borough of old Italian grandmothers who are willing to feed you at any time of the day. We love our food, just as much as the next person trying to get a reservation at Momofuku Ko, but instead of writing about it on Yelp or the next food blog, we talk about it over five hour Sunday dinners with the family.I just hope you guys can give us more credit next time.
P.S. We're not all in the Mafia, either.

We take it back, Nicole!

Earlier: Bronx Does Pizza and Burgers Better, According to ‘Post’

NewsFeed 

5/15/08

4:30 PM

Drinks Are on the House If You Name Galapagos 2.0

chestnut

Any bright ideas?Photo: Gothamist

Kosher Village, which has its falafel giveaway tomorrow, apparently inspired the new owner of the soon-to-reopen Galapagos space in Williamsburg. According to Gothamist, Matthew Roff (who also owns Southpaw and Franklin Park, the new beer garden near the Brooklyn Museum) will award a $1,000 bar tab to the person who comes up with a snappy name for his performance and drinking venue. We wonder how many entrants will tell him to serve sliders and call it WilliamsBurger.


Name That Space in Williamsburg [Gothamist]

NewsFeed 

5/15/08

4:15 PM

Hundred Acres Opens Thursday; Tables Aplenty

Hundred Acres, the Haute Barnyard-er that Vicki Freeman and Marc Meyer are opening in the Provence space, has hit OpenTable. Opening night is next Thursday, May 22, and, as of this posting, it’s wide-open, including that coveted two-for-eight slot.

Restaurant Profile: Hundred Acres [OpenTable]
Restaurant Openings: Week of May 19 [NYM]

Two for Eight 

5/15/08

4:00 PM

Tables Available at Craftbar; Gramercy Tavern and Union Square Café Mostly Booked

I

t’s 4 p.m., and that means it’s time to play Two for Eight. We just asked nine restaurants the best times they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don’t guarantee the results.) Today: Danny Meyer and Tom Colicchio.

From Bar Room at the Modern to Union Square CafĂ©. »

Back of the House 

5/15/08

3:30 PM

Defeated Cheftestant Just Wants to Help Fat Cops

alcohol

Andrew can make anything look demented.Photo: Courtesy of Bravo

Last night on Top Chef, a healthy-cooking challenge for Chicago cops produced some of the worst dishes ever seen on the show. Lisa’s stir-fry was anything but that, and Spike managed to scrape by in spite of a thoughtless chicken salad containing olives and grapes. Still, it was the ever-energetic Andrew who was sent home for his bewilderingly riceless sushi. Michael Alan Connelly spoke to him this morning about hanging out with Spike and culinary boners.

"wd-50…hit me in the face like a brick." »

Neighborhood Watch 

5/15/08

3:00 PM

Self-serve Model for Frozen Yogurt Causes Stir in the East Village; Junior's Doesn't Have a Good Burger, Either

Astoria: El Jamon has yummy garlic-shrimp toast. [Joey in Astoria]
Chelsea: There's a singles wine-tasting event at 16 West 23rd Street next Thursday, and it includes cheese and chocolate. You can get tickets by e-mailing info@swirlevents.com. [Grub Street]
Downtown Brooklyn: At Juniors, "I am sure there was a time when the burger here was quite good, but sadly that time has passed." [Hamburger Today]
East Village: A self-serve, pay-by-the-ounce frozen-yogurt spot called 16 Handles is coming to Second Avenue between 9th and 10th. Does that mean sixteen flavors!?! [Eater]
Flatiron: Hill Country is serving brunch, featuring house-smoked bacon, chicken-fried steak, huevos rancheros, and other Texas grub. [Grub Street]

NewsFeed 

5/15/08

2:15 PM

Chestnut Set to Expand With New Bar

chestnut

All it needed was another bar and some candy.Photo: Jonathan Bourland

This summer, it will be easier to get a table at Chestnut in Carroll Gardens. The restaurant is expanding into a separate bar space next door, says owner Daniel Eardley. Look for a bar menu featuring small plates and a selection of handmade chocolates. In the bar, you'll be able to order from Chestnut's full dinner menu, but that option is not reciprocated in the dining room. “We're keeping Chestnut open for business during the construction next door, but expect to see a short closure at some point and reopening in the next six to eight weeks,” Eardley says.

NewsFeed 

5/15/08

1:30 PM

Team From 1 Oak Makes China Club's Roof the Height of Luxury

richie akiva

Richie Akiva will see you on the roof.Photo: Melissa Hom

The Vongerichtification of the China Club was a long time coming, and today Steve Lewis reveals that none other than the team from 1 Oak will be behind the indoor-outdoor rooftop named Eden. (The interview says it opens tonight, May 15, but the club tells us more like next week.) It’ll cater to the “chic elite” (as opposed to the shabby elite) and is “designed for bottle service.” As for the rest of the club, it’s a little confusing — the names Crest, Opera, and Opera at the Crest are bandied about to refer to the independently run lounges within the club (there will also be live shows), but somehow we’re guessing Eden is the name that will end up on people’s lips.

Danny Fried and Michael Barrett Turn the China Club Into Opera, Eden and Crest. And the Boys From 1OAK Are Aboard, Part One, Part Two, and Part Three [Goodnight Mr. Lewis]

NewsFeed 

5/15/08

1:00 PM

Higher Food Costs Are Literally a Buzz Kill

alcohol

Get used to it.Photo: iStockphoto

WalletPop alerts us to ten “sneaky restaurant tricks” to look out for as food costs rise and restaurateurs cut corners to avoid hiking up the prices on their menus. Nothing really surprising here: We’re apt to see smaller portions, less expensive ingredients (one analyst foresees a resurgence of liver and onions — which means we’ll just have to spend more money on Altoids), less fresh produce, generic brands, the pushing of high-profit-margin entrées like pasta, and (gasp!) weaker pours of liquor:
In the United Kingdom pubs must sell liquor in 25 ml or 35 ml servings and have bar gadgets that pour exactly that amount. Maybe they'll start becoming a common sight in the U.S., too.

In fact, maybe we’ll have robots for bartenders and we wouldn’t be able to hook up with them at the end of the night, and, and… Oh, this is going to be bad.

Sneaky restaurant tricks: Ten to watch out for [WalletPop]

NewsFeed 

5/15/08

12:30 PM

Mister Softee Chases Good Humor Man Away From the Corner

mr. softee vs good humor man

Photo Courtesy of Mister Softee and Good Humor Ice Cream

When Mister Softee goes to war against the Good Humor Man, the only winners are newspaper-feature writers. The Times ran a story yesterday morning about retro Good Humor Man Jose Martinez locked bumper to bumper and eye to eye with Mister Softee driver Carlos Rodriguez at an Upper West Side school corner. But in a late-afternoon update, we learned that Mister Softee showed up for work early and declared victory. This is a dark day for ice cream. What kind of victory deprives children of the clinking bells and retro excitement of the Good Humor Man? In this battle, nothing was won but ill humor.

It’s Still Spring, but the Ice Cream Truck War Revs Up [NYT]
A Cease-Fire in a West Side Ice Cream War [City Room/NYT]
Related: Good Humor Man of Old Returns, Bringing…Good Humor

NewsFeed 

5/15/08

11:30 AM

PM and Stereo Guys Fail Upwards in Hamptons

Thought being near the ferry was crucial to a Hamptons club’s survival? Hamptons.com reveals that Unik Ernest, of shuttered PM (and Merkato 55), is teaming up with Mike Satsky, of shuttered Stereo, to open a club, Lily Pond, that will be just a mile away from a helicopter pad. Which means that Escalades are no longer the most impressive thing you can pull up to a club in.

Talk Around Town [Hamptons.com]

NewsFeed 

5/15/08

11:00 AM

‘Gattaca’ Designer to Do Wine Bar in Former Baggot Inn Space

ethan hawke and uma thurman

"Want to go get a glass of wine?"Photo courtesy Columbia Pictures

The Baggot Inn is closed, and no one’s happy about that, but at least it isn’t going to become yet another bank or boutique. We’re told by its new occupant that in three or four months it will become a wine bar, tentatively to be called Vine. Owner Inez Bon says that the place will have “gourmet tapas and pizzas,” with an emphasis on organic ingredients and, to a great extent, organic wines. It will definitely be cool-looking: Jan Roelfs, the Oscar-nominated production designer of Gattaca and Orlando, will be doing the space.

Related: Look Back and Laugh [NYM]

Mediavore 

5/15/08

10:00 AM

Food Prices Still Surging; Farewell to the Minetta Tavern

• The increase in food prices last month was the greatest one-month hike in eighteen years. [NYP]

• Mariah Carey was very protective of her wedding cake — which was delicious, by the way – on the way to the Bahamas. [Mouthing Off/Food & Wine]

• Not only is there free coffee at Dunkin’ Donuts today, but you can also get a free Southern Style Chicken sandwich at McDonald’s if you buy a drink. [Midtown Lunch]

Another bakery the vermin can't resist. »

Foodievents 

5/15/08

9:30 AM

Taste of the Nation Marked by Uni, Performance Ham, Good Times

Top Chef's spike

You may consider these hats silly...Photo: Josh Ozersky

Share Our Strength’s Taste of the Nation New York City event was the first massive tasting gala in many months, and Grub Street was on the spot to capture the festivities. The food was spectacular: If Jean Georges' uni with jalapeño on pumpernickel toast had not been present, we would have been caught in a deadlock between Artie’s pastrami sliders, Tailor’s miso-butterscotch pork belly, and Pegu's grapefruit-vodka-and-orchid-flower cocktail. (Tailor’s Eben Freeman let us try a secret batch of masala rum, but that wasn’t available to the public.)

Liebrandt flees the scene. »

Back of the House 

5/15/08

9:00 AM

Adam Platt Has No Idea Who Sam Talbot Is

top chef cops

There's no way these Chicago cops were happy that this was a healthy-eating challenge. We know we weren't.Photo: Bravo

Last night’s Top Chef delivered all we could hope for in terms of hostility and backbiting, with a rare appearance of a male who could stand up to the gorgon gaze of Lisa. But after an Elimination Challenge in which the cheftestants were asked to cook healthy food for Chicago cops and pretty much failed, Spike, Lisa, and Andrew all went before the judges' table. Andrew's resulting ejection was so manifestly unjust that we practically ran to the computer to IM Adam Platt.

"Why the noodle headed Spike survived is, again, a mystery to me." »

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