As the Andrew Carmellini era at A Voce draws to an end, some of his kitchen staff are looking elsewhere for work. Josh Gripper, the hugely talented young pastry chef whom Carmellini discovered, is on his way out. “I’m not comfortable with [the ownership’s] direction, and I don’t think it would be a smart move to stay with them,” he says. Gripper is heading to Daniel, Carmellini’s home for so many years, where he will work as a sous-chef with Dominque Ansel, the head pastry man there. “Sometimes, you need to take one step back to take two steps forward. It’ll be good for me to have a four-star restaurant under my belt,” he says. Gripper's move could be temporary, depending on where Carmellini lands.

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