Gael Greene likes Chodorow's newly opened steakhouse, though she doesn't see Frank Bruni falling in love with it: "Naturally raised meats, free-range birds and sustainable seafood as a theme may not disarm bomb throwers whom Chodorow rubs the wrong way — he’s too rich, too successful, even with his periodic stumbles, too undiscourageable, in this case, too behind the times. But if you’re simply hungry and not worried about maxing out multiple credit cards, this is a place to luxuriate…" Just beware the frustrated comic at the flambé station. [Insatiable Critic]